Biofuel Blues

Welcome to the OTT forum Midland.

I had a similar problem which required me to replace the fuel filter and put BioCide in the fuel tank to prevent algae buildup.

Does the tractor fire at all now? Has a compression test been done?

The L2850 is a nice tractor, usually worth restoring. Just correcting the neglected condition of biofuel in it may not be a big deal, but it might be wise to check out the machine's big stuff (compression, clutch, hydraulics) to be sure it's a good candidate.

To purge the fuel lines it helps to get the whole tractor quite warm - like it gets on a hot summer day (hard to do in December.). Open the tank end of the fuel line and the end at the outlet of the fuel transfer pump - blow out the fuel lines from the tank end with compressed air - go easy to avoid rupturing rubber tubing or the plastic fuel filter bowl. If it won't blow through, it will have to be opened and purged in more locations until it will.

What biofuel? Biodiesel or Waste Veg. Oil straight? Each presents a different issue though the repair is the same sorta.

Both can clean the crap out of the fuel system clogging things with loosened crud, both gell in colder weather... just WVO more so, and both can attract water.... that attracts algae.

consider replacing all your fuel lines and filters. Will help solve most of these issues.

Search on how to prime the system to get her restarted if your not familure.

Oh and with that in mind..... primer pumps; if there is one, are notorious for going bad and allowing air in the system; not letting her run or start. An air leak may actually be your problem now that think about it. Though replacing fuel lines etc. will help with that too. If your not familiar with air leaks.... a search in here will help you there too.

Good dino diesel with a fuel treatment of choice will generally clear all the remnants out over time. Biocide isn't a bad idea either. Does it fire?

Even dino diesel will gum up over time. It sounds like this gift horse may have more issues than just old fuel...

You may have to drain the whole system including fuel lines, and flushing the injection pump. The prime the whole system with fresh diesel.

The fuel system is pretty easy for the most part. Just time consuming. Especially draining the tank and removing the crud

I've had pieces of equipment gummed up over the years. I drained the fuel tank. If it's easily removable, then removing the pepcock after it's drained and steam cleaning the tank works pretty good.

Then had to disconnect fuel lines from the fuel pump. If it's standard fuel line, then I just replace it if it's clogged. It's pretty inexpensive and easier then trying to get the crud out of it.

The hard lines to the injectors, I disconnect them from both ends, and blow them out with compressed air. Make sure and use a back up wrench at the injection pump so the ports don't get loosened up.

Replace the fuel filter.

Do Not blow compressed air through your fuel pump or injection pump!!!!! You can cause damage.

Then I start the bleeding process. I get fresh diesel to the injection pump. Leaving the fuel lines from the injection pump to injectors disconnected. I crank the engine till I get good clean diesel out of the ports on the injection pump.This will also let you know if you have a blockage internally in the injection pump.

Then hook the lines to the injection pump but don't hook them to the injectors yet. I crank the engine over till I get good clean diesel out of the injection lines. This also makes sure anything missed by the compressed air gets worked out of the lines and doesn't plug the injectors.

Then hook the lines to the injectors but leave them loose. Crank till diesel spurts from the loose fittings and then tighten. This makes sure the air is out of the lines.

Then I proceed to try and start the engine diesel treatment and an algicide are a must when filling the tank back up

hmmm..... something sounds fishy. Govt. would probably not be putting any Waste Veg. oil in it. If any biofuel it would be something like B5 (5% biofuel) or lower. All that will do as mentioned before is clean the crud out and stop up filters... etc. Might..... cause problem with older already degrading inside fuel lines especially those prior to requirements to use fuel lines that meet SAE J30R9 standards cause "Any fuel line that meets or exceeds SAE J30R9 is biodiesel compatible"

So my bet is you were fed some bull orr..... mechanic who reported on it just jumped to that conclusion. He/she would not be the first one to do that.

Clean the crap out of the fuel system as mentioned in previous threads. Use newer fuel lines that meet newest diesel SAE fuel line standards including those for biodiesl cause it is better fuel line anyway. Put in fuel cleaner and biocide..... prime and see what you have as others have mentioned.

Might take fuel pump and keep warm to melt crud out with old towels. But replace lines to engine. Hope your fuel filters are not a orange brown color. Mine were at 80 hours on BX.


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Wow. Remind me not to use biofuels.

Going through the same thing with a Case 400 I stupidly used free biodiesel. Worst con ever foisted on the populace. Be Ye Warned.

Pat

I am thinking soaking in kerosene may help.

Fuel lines are probably toast, pull the injectors are soak them for a week or two.

Pour a tablespoon clean motor oil down the injector hole, weekly, leave to soak.
This will free up pistons...

A 60-100 ml syringe may be useful, along with a bunny suit, eye protection, and gloves...

If kerosene is not strong enough, try acetone. Very flammable, will dissolve plastic,extreme caution is needed!!!

Not so fast on the no bio in Gov't rigs. Our local ones brag about it. Whether it's B5, B20 or higher I can't answer.

Amazingly, the best solvent for bio-varnish, or dino-varnish, is fresh biodiesel.

I once had an old outboard motor that had been sitting for 30 years starting with a full tank. It took high octane gasoline a lot of flushes to do the job. I recommend a lot of the highest octane you can get and be prepared to waste a bunch.

adventure bob said:

Amazingly, the best solvent for bio-varnish, or dino-varnish, is fresh biodiesel.

Click to expand...

This a valid point. Bio typically does a super job of cleaning the fuel system. I work for a little hole in the wall place that makes 50 million gallons of bio per year. I'd wager that you're putting the blame on the wrong component. If all of the fuel system isn't bio compatible things have a way of getting dissolved. There have been cases where some fuel tank fill hoses have destroyed tractor fuel systems due to being mislabeled as bio compatible.

Around here all the diesel is a bio blend. My L3200 & F250 drink it like koolaid.