Pretty discouraged please suggest something.

1945Dave

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Jun 6, 2019
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I am not stupid but sure feel that way right now.

I have a old but in very good condition, 1450 hours, barn kept, a L245DT, that out of the blue decided to give me grief. Apparently the problem is fuel delivery and I worried it might be the injector pump. Now I am less sure.

The issue is the engine starts easily but dies. I checked the tank first. Super clean and nearly full. Changed the fuel filter, flushed the main fuel line to the injector pump. Gravity feed to this connection and fuel flows freely to the injector pump. Cracked the lines going to the injectors and cranked the engine over watching for clean fuel to squirt out each connection. To me it looks good with steady pulses of raw fuel coming out around the connections. All three about the same. Now that I am fighting this I have cracked open and closed each connection probably 25 times. Concerned that perhaps I am letting air back into the injector lines I tighten each connection while cranking. Like I said at first, the engine will start easily and then die. If I start with the throttle at a fast idle position it will start almost normally but slowly starts running rough and then dies. If I start with a high throttle position it starts and sounds good for about 20 seconds before dying.

At this point am I correct to say this is a fuel delivery problem?
 

greenacresnorth

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Feb 18, 2018
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when it starts, runs rough, then dies is there smoke out the exhaust? what color? do you smell raw fuel (eyes burning) in said smoke? have you checked intake track to include air filter and intake tube right to engine?
 

Lenny

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Oct 11, 2015
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I even disconnected the air intake hose from the intake manifold to make certain that it was getting air. Also using a misting type spray bottle I squirted fuel into the intake manifold (small amount) to see if that would help and it did not help.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Also using a misting type spray bottle I squirted fuel into the intake manifold (small amount) to see if that would help and it did not help.
Please do not do that again, it's a good way to destroy these engines, and now the intake has a oil film to attract and collect any small dust and turn it into large dust / dirt particles.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I'll tell you the same thing I told lenny:

Pull the injectors, pull one injection line and connect it to the injection pump off to the side, so you can connect an injector to it, no need to worry about the top nut and line (over flow).

Tighten the fitting on the injection pump side, but leave the line a little loose on the injector, set throttle to high, crank engine till line is bleed then snug up fitting on injector, use a piece of cardboard (NEVER YOUR HAND) to see a spray pattern, if it's weak or non existent you can pull the injector apart noting the direction and arrangement of the internal parts, clean all parts with carb or brake parts cleaner and a tooth brush (DO NOT USE THE WIFES).
Reassemble and Retest.
 

1945Dave

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Jun 6, 2019
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Covington, Louisiana
Progress but still discouraged .
I ordered three new injectors from Oregon Injectors.

Top to bottom I have followed everyone advice. New fuel and air filters, new injectors. Cleaned and flushed all fuel lines and tank. Brand new Fuel can, new fuel in that can into my tank. I am not trying to be funny just trying to demonstrate complete step by step effort.

Followed Wolfman’s advice, checked fuel delivery out of the injector pump. Fuel shot up about 1 1/2” high evenly in order. Assumed that supports a working injection pump. Tested each line to the injectors one by one. Got a pretty fist size spray ball of fuel out of each injector. Reassembled, set the torque value to 33 foot pounds tightening force.

Starts right up but not running right and is short of normal power. I ran around my field with the engine wide open in 2nd gear high range for 10 minutes to see if it would clear up or improve. No. What am I missing.
 

Lil Foot

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The only thing that leaps to mind for me is valve lash adjustment.
 

Captain13

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Does the tractor have a fuel solenoid cutoff. If so, reseat the connector (remove and reconnect).

Check your fuel return line for cracks. Make sure the fuel lines are tight and have no cracks. If the fuel system is sucking air instead of fuel it will shut off.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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You need to do a compression test, that will answer a lot!
 

thepumpguysc

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THATS bare minimum compression for a diesel engine.. it takes 300 psi to ignite the fuel on a "compression ignition" engine.
{just so u know}
U might get away w/ it if it has glow plugs in good working order.. for awhile.
Did u do a "wet" compression test after u did the dry.?? Just squirt some oil into the cylinder, 5-10 squirts from an oil can should do it.. What u want to do is cover the piston enough so the oil runs down & off the sides of the piston.. in effect, sealing the rings w/ oil..
Then see how hi the gauge jumps from the initial test.. 75-100psi more & it tells u an overhaul is in your near future.. {bad/worn rings}
Good luck.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Yes a clogged muffler could do the same as a plugged intake, it's rare but I've seen it happen.

If nothing on the muffler side of things, Pull the valve cover and check the valve lash, should be .008.
 

GeoHorn

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Not a diesel... but a gasoline engine I’ve owned did this with a plugged exhaust caused by a mud-dauber nest. It would run about 20 seconds and slow-down and die. Would restart and do it over and over.
Removing the exhaust system proved the problem and soaked it submerged and all kinds of mud washed out.
Reassembled... VOILA!