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I have a L2850 GST that is making a popping noise from the right rear side. I checked all the lug nuts and rim spacer without any change in the noise. I could feel it under the seat. It would only make the noise if the rear was loaded with either the frame mounted backhoe or 3-point box blade on...

I have late 80's L2850 on semi permanent loan that has a BF500 loader and aftermarket frame mounted Bradco 8MD2 backhoe. The owner is unsure of the whereabouts of the 3 point control arms and linkages. I wanted to rent a tiller for the tractor and at this point I'm looking to buy either a used...

I checked all the wiring between the switch, light, relay and fuse, all the connections are good. Performed continuity test on switch for the hazard function and it failed. So while the headlight function of the switch works, the hazard function doesn’t. However upon further going through the...

Fortunately I have a wiring diagram out of the owners manual, but unfortunately I know for a fact that there have been sub-repairs done to the wiring by the previous owner’s employees Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The actual hazard unit (flasher relay) which is mounted on the right side under the hood by the voltage regulator. I totally agree that the relay shouldn’t be clicking when the switch is not turned on. I’m also not saying that the wiring harness is in my perfect shape. I plan on starting at the...

I started diagnosing the issue of the hazard lights not working and I checked that I have power at the hazard unit connector as well as testing the hazard unit off the tractor and it works as it should. My issue is as soon as I turn the key on the relay clicks once and poof goes the 10 amp...

Sorry, guess bigger isn't always better! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just took the battery off the charger at 12.76v. Put it on the tractor and fired it up and took a reading off the battery and alternator both read 12.22 volts with no lights on and tractor reved up to 1500 rpm. Turn head lights on and got a reading of 12.08v at both alternator and battery...

Once I got the outer race off I used a socket that was the same diameter of the inside of the clutch hub there to brace for a 3-jaw puller. Doesn't take much effort to pull it off. Once you get that pulley off you'll exposed the other external snap ring that holds the "pressure plate" if you...

Wolfman, do you know the specs on the factory battery for this l2850. I only purchased what was originally on the tractor when I acquired it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was with the regulator taken out of the circuit. It was a "no load test. I didn't have the battery connected and i jumped the terminals, can't remember which terminals but the alternator was isolated from the rest of the system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take a look at the photo below as well as the diagrams the Wolfman posted above. I did the same thing you did. You'll have to completely tear the clutch pack down. That's the only way you'll get to the o-ring that is the culprit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went through the the WSM and followed the procedure to perform a no load test on the alternator and I got 17v across the battery terminal and body of the alternator so I'm ruling that out. I also stripped the regulator down and went through the steps to check that and it tested out within all...

Makes sense to me, I did the whole kit and caboodle which is why I dropped the tranny completely. Better have a box end wrench for that mid case! Two more tips for reassembly: 1. When bolting the mid case to the tranny make sure the shaft that rides on that bearing in the mid case is aligned...

I just did the seals, the plates were well within tolerance. Oddly enough there was an extra clutch plate in the pack, I have no idea how but I checked the manual and parts list and I came up with an extra one. Heads up, better have a pretty decent pair of snap ring pliers to get the internal...

When I acquired this tractor in March I didn't don much to it right away except put a new battery it. It fired right up for a 30 year old machine that had been sitting for 5 years out in the open. Fast forward now that I've been using it and just replaced both hydraulic and mechanical clutches...

****UPDATE*** Tractor shifts like a champ now, no slipping and I actually got to experience 8th gear! (Before it just stalled out when I even thought about shifting above 7th). All in all I think she definitely got some life breathed back into her. I hooked up the loader and it seems to behave...

I had a setback last week when i botched a bearing trying to put the mid case and transmission back together. Just got the new bearing and got it installed and got the transmission bolted back on and the two halves back together. Now I have to put all the other items back together associated...

I just ordered the parts last night. So it will be next weekend before I can give a status update. I will warn you, you'll wind up having to drop the whole transmission out and separate it from the mid case to get the hydraulic clutch out. Take a gander below if you're curious... Sent...

I'm on the east coast here and the best I can do is about $33 for a 2 gallon jug of Mystik at TSC and they would have to bring it in because they don't stock it. Messicks sells udt for $79/5 gallon. This stuff is $35/5 gallon and in stock at my TSC. Says UDT right on the back but I've only...