Recent content by the mean fish

I don't really have any current pictures of it, I've been using it to mow for a year now and never did finish rebuilding it past the mechanical side of things. This is what it looked like after I got it back in good running order but without the deck on it. I've got plans to take it a lot...

It's actually not the wheels or tires that I need, at some point before I bought the machine someone broke one of the yokes. They welded it up but not very well and it has damaged the spindle. What I really need to find is someone with a rusted out deck that I can scavenge the parts off of. :D

I have an F2100 with a 72" deck up front, the model number sticker is long gone and I need to locate some gauge wheel parts for up front. Is there a model or serial number stamped into this thing somewhere that would tell me the model number? I believe it's an RC72 ____ , I just have no clue...

Is there any reason why you guys wouldn't fill these rollers with fine sand instead of water to help with rust inside?

Re: Rolled my B7800 last night, now it will not turn-over... In the rock crawling/offroading world we call that a "flop", if you had rolled it the story would be much different right now. :o Glad you got out of there ok and I'm glad my yard is fairly flat.

Ok I've checked the dampener on my tractor and it doesn't seem to have much resistance whatsoever, I can't imagine it's doing anything at all. I'm going to order a replacement whether it fixes the issue or not, it looks like it's shot and worn out.

I noticed the dampener but when I asked my Kubota service guy about it he said all it did was stop you from going from forward to reverse too fast. I didn't realize it had any kind of centering properties in it but that would make sense. If I pull it off how can I tell if it's bad? Should it...

Yes, exactly the same in reverse. It has a forward and reverse pedal right next to each other and they work opposite of each other obviously. When you want to stop you have to feather the other pedal until the tractor comes to a complete stop otherwise it'll just inch forward or backwards...

I just don't see how that would actually solve the problem, if the trans is still stuck "in gear" and I lock up the brakes that isn't going to affect the trans. I tried it yesterday at a very low RPM on the engine and it stalled the engine so it's not pulling it out of gear.

I've tried that and it's not working, I'm wondering if there a mechanical/physical connection between the braking pedals and the transmission control mechanism or does it just slow the tractor down using the brakes enough to stop the transmission?

I think I see the spring, I just need to know what to lubricate. I've greased everything I can find and it's gotten a lot better but it's still not good enough to trust. Maybe it's just an adjustment that needs to be made to the neutral position...

It's a 4x4 mower and it just overpowers the brakes. Are you saying there's a link somewhere between the brakes and the trans mechanisms? :confused:

I have a Kubota F2100 front deck mower that I'm trying to bring back to life and even after reading the service manuals it came with I can't figure out what physically brings the hydrostatic trans back to the neutral position when you take your foot off the pedals? When I take my foot off of...

Ok got'em ordered, I guess we'll see if they fit. :D

The ROPS on my old F2100 is just bent 2" square 3/16" wall mild tube, with some 3/16" wall DOM you could easily build something stronger than stock. Do you have access to a welder and know how to use it? What about a bender with dies?