Recent content by jiggseob

Dan TheOldHokie, you are exactly correct. Putting seal kit into my bucket tilt cylinder was a waste of time and money.

The "near perfect match" of an off-the-shelf replacement cylinder, if one cylinder of an operating pair is replaced and the other not, there is the potential for the difference in piston area and length to have an undesired un-equal effect during operation. In the case above, the 0.40 inch...

If the cylinder is only leaking oil to the outside, you should only require the rod-seal. If the cylinder leaks-down, as in the load comes down, that may be either the piston seal or the control valve. Either or both. I just did cylinder seals on the loader of my L3130 using dealer parts...

You will have to press with a press or pull with a puller to get the inner race of that bearing off the holder. The clutch release bearing on my B6200 HSTD 4wd took about half of the force from my 10T shop press to get it to move off. Much less press for the new one going on. When pressing...

Another update... injection pump stuck. The #3 plunger is not returning the same as the #1 and #2. And the rod that links the three barrels together should slide fore and aft with very little effort. The governor, linked through a quite small spring, pushes on that pin to move the rod - fuel...

Somersault the tractor.... the amazing part of those videos is the behaviour of the bystanders, in this case a person in the white garment just sitting on the ground close by, chilling calmly within the radius of potential destruction should that somersault go slightly sideways. The person...

Update.... back from Perth... 46C (114F) there for a couple days. Crank - main journals and crank-pins all ground 0.4mm under. Crank installed, main bearings all plastigage 0.002" oil clearance. Main bearing 1 bushing and journal micrometer measured to also have that 0.002" oil clearance...

I agree that the stress on a loader and tractor while "lifting" a load is one thing. Having a load unevenly distributed between the two sides of the loader, then going over uneven ground, possibly steering left or right, would put twisting force on the loader frame far greater than would occur...

My bothers L3540 is 200 miles away, impractial to show repair. My L3130 is apart in the shop, doing main and rod bearings. The loader frames and bracketry on the two tractors is similar. The attached photo is of a non-bent, non-fishplated, non-repaired loader frame component from my L3130...

Once the loader is off, I think those frame towers come off fairly easily, a bunch of big fine-thread metric bolts. A Milwaukee M-18 hi-torq rattle gun will make quick work of them. If you don't have a spare strong-back-weak-mind helper to hold those ~150lb things up as you take the bolts out...

I think you will find the twist in the loader frame tower that stays on the tractor after the loader quick-detaches. I saw that on my brothers L3540 with LA724 loader. One of the long, flat straight pieces was bent, we straightened it and welded on a "fish-plate" to make it stronger in that...

Is power being transmitted from the flywheel to the transmission input shaft while the clutch pedal is fully pushed in? It sure sounds like it. Yes, there are two possible scenarios for this unwanted power transmission, 1 unwanted /un-intended contact of the clutch disc to flywheel or clutch...

Update... Took the crank to Camrose Engine Rebuilders, the local shop that has been grinding cranks and building engines since the 1960's. Greg quick-looked at the crank, still concerned that the damage to the #1 crankpin journal is deeper than 16 thou. His crank grinding technician looked...

Weld-and-Grind, a shop in Edmonton ballparks $2500 to build-up one journal then grind down all the journals. All-State Ag Parts shows what I need on their site, but a phone call and conversation with Jeff finds that my crank is not in-stock, no core on-hand to refurbish, so a strike-out there...