Recent content by jcyphert

Yikes! I (wrongly) never really consider those as possible entry points. Maybe it would be better to just keep the drain bolt out and access panel open a few days after cleaning from now on. I'm slowly trying to break myself from my fathers way of doing things, "If it ain't broke... don't fix...

That's a good one! I forgot... My L175 has just a little more than 1 inch of travel on either side of the axel. I was able to lay a piece of rough-cut panel board from my chicken coop on either side to keep it from flopping over. It worked great.

I split my L175 by pulling the bolts out all the way and putting them all back in a full rotation. This will keep the tractor from hitting the floor when you try to split it. I also blocked mine so it wouldn't fall. Jacking it right below the bell housing made a clean split. I then took the...

You folks are awesome! I got it working using a combination of all methods. Thank you all for that. Do you have any recommendations on making sure it doesn't happen again? Should i have put liquid gasket around the bell housing?

Correct. The pedal willpush but it does not disengage the transmission. I can start it in gear allowing the tractor to creap ahead. I'll give vic's method a try.

Everything thing worked great until the water layed in the bottom of the bell housing. It had to have rusted... I tried to block the clutch and tap it free but no luck. Where should I be trying to tap?I tried to tap the gear on the shaft, between the plates. Got nothing...

I recently rebuilt the clutch assembly and install new plates, engagement levers and bearings. I pressure washed the tractor after I put the bell housing back together. It appears it got moisture in the housing causing the the clutch to not engage. I'm assuming the plates are rusted together...

I'll make it a point! I might even post as I go, maybe I can get some good input that way. ;)

I just finished up replacing the main shaft in my L175. What a great tractor. Good luck. I'm working on a cider press for mine now. Belt run Grinder from the PTO shaft with a 2:1 speed reduction via pulleys, press will be the hydraulic cyl. off the dozer/snow blade on the front.

Does anyone have any tricks for removing bearings from the main shaft on a L175 with out a press? I have the shaft out and the new one here but I have to get the bearings and one of the gears off the old and on the new. I was hoping that their might be a trick in getting it off. Thanks Folks...

In my search to replace the main shaft on my L175 I found these sites. These are not OEM shops but they are new... http://www.ssbtractor.com https://www.tractorpartsasap.com http://bestfarmparts.com and of course, Vic has parts: http://www.orangetractortalks.com

Mine doesn't have one either. Is this something that can be added?

Okay, I got it apart!! I know it's not the right way to do things but it worked. Two anchor points and one come-along pulled it right apart. anyone else thinking of doing this... they key is to leave a few bolts in so you don't pull the pieces right onto the floor. :)

This explains why I can't seem to get the front to "break" from the rear of the transmission. LOL

I have two concerns, 1) pressure from within the transmission working the seal 2) now giving the gasket time to form before it is squeezed too tight for it to setup.