View Full Version : Wood splitter connections
03-01-2009, 09:24 PM
I am looking at a Powerhorse 1159 wood splitter for use with my BX2660. I understand the limited volume of my tractor results in relatively slow performace with most splitters, but I've read that many owners of similar tractors are able to use this one with more than acceptable performance.
My question is what is the best way to connect this splitter to my tractor? I don't have rear remotes; just the an FEL and its controls. I've read about connecting to the dump/curl circuit and then using a bungee cord to hold the joystick. This seems hokey. I've also read that damage to the splitter's controls could result by using the 3ph while the joystick was engaged like this.
Would it work to connect to the FEL lift/lower circuit, and then put the control in the float postion? I could get rear remotes installed (at some cost), but I suspect that they are 1/4" lines rather than the 3/8" lines that are at the FEL, which would result in less flow. I want the highest flow, best performing way of doing this.
It is probably clear by now that I am a little confused on this. I've come to you for an expert opinion. Thank you in advance.
Service Dept Vic
03-02-2009, 10:00 AM
You could consider bypassing the tractors loader control (joystick) and plumb the wood splitter to the hydraulic distribution block on the tractor, where the color coded quick disconnects are now. Install male disconnects on the lines from the log splitter so after disconnecting the hydraulic lines for the loader you can "plug" the splitter in.
You'll need to make sure to use the hydraulic lines that runs to the loader control valve "inlet", and the one that runs from the loader control "outlet" back to the tractor.
This is the "loop" that you need for the log splitter. The other 2 outlets on the distribution block won't be used. Make sure to use the correct lines here!
CAUTION: This will only work if the log splitters "trip" is of an "open centre" design. That is, hydraulic fluid and pressure will run "through" the trip control on the log splitter continuously, unless you move the lever to operate the log splitter ram. The trip control on the log splitter must also return to a "neutral centered position" (spring loaded) on it's own, so you don't have to remember to move it back after a successful split.
If the log splitters control is of a "closed centre" design, the diverted hydraulic fluid and pressure from the tractors hydraulic circuit will be "dead headed" at the log splitter control (since it can't pass through it), possibly damaging the tractor, or you if you're standing nearby!
Your BX has a maximum pump output capacity of 6.3GPM, so trip/cycle time of the splitter will be affected by RPM of the tractors engine, when splitting wood.
At 3200 RPM you'll achieve the maximum hydraulic throughput and pressure with the shortest trip/cycle time of the splitter at 4.5 seconds.
Your BX will be running full "bunny"! :D
03-16-2009, 07:12 PM
Thanks for the explanation. I"ve pretty much decided to go with a Split-fire due to its better build and Canadian origin. I've had a better look at the BX and I'm still a little unclear what to connect to what.
I see on the block there are several lines, some that are not even used. How would I get a diagram/schematic of this layout? I'm very new to hydraulics, but I generally am more comfortable when I understand what the whole system is doing rather than just "hook it up and see if it works".
Also, I'd like to make sure that I don't do anything that will interfere with the future addition of rear remotes.
Service Dept Vic
03-16-2009, 08:54 PM
Right you are! Trial and error is not a good thing especially with hydraulics. Dead heading a hydraulic pump is an ugly thing!
The easiest way to plumb in would be to take the loader control valve out of the equation, by disconnecting the inlet and return lines, leaving the up/down, tilt/rollback still hooked up to the joystick.
The splitter can then be hooked up in series, taking it's hydraulic feed from the inlet or pressure line, and returning it's hydraulic fluid to the return line from the loader control.
Once wood splitting is done, disconnect the splitter, and re-hook up the joystick. By using "quick disconnects", it takes seconds to make the change over.
When you have some extra time, you can get creative an build a parallel circuit off the pressure and return lines from the joystick.
Just make sure that the log splitter has an open centre trip control of it's own, as hydraulic fluid must continually make the "loop" in this configuration.
03-17-2009, 04:26 AM
That makes sense Vic, but I don't understand why I'd be messing with the FEL control at all. The block at the back is right around where I'd want to connect the splitter. Can't I just work from that point backwards?
Service Dept Vic
03-17-2009, 04:31 PM
Snap a pic of that connector and post it back, I'll let you know what you have there.
03-21-2009, 03:30 PM
Vic, here's a picture from the rear and from the right side. I assume this is the right area since this is where the lines for the FEL originate.
Service Dept Vic
03-21-2009, 08:38 PM
You have 3 lines there, a pressure line a return line and a power beyond line.
The splitter can be powered from the Power Beyond line, may be indicated with a PB designation on the block, and the return line.
T-off using quick connects. You'll be splittin' wood in no time.
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