Transporting a tractor?

[Gary]

The only time I have had my tractor on a trailor was bringing it home. The dealer had me run a chain across the front bumper then wrapped the lower lift arms with another chain. I am going to be making a 450 mile round trip next week is that the best way of securing the tractor?

[rbphoto]

Good load chain and a couple of quality binders through solid frame points works for nearly any piece of equipment.

I'm not familiar with the bumper or the lower lift arms on your tractor, but look for a solid frame section to thread the chain through.

Raymond

[blwn31]

I hauled mine 150 miles with 3 inch ratchet straps from The Home Depot. I used 5 total. My B20 with FEL and Box Scraper, didn't move one iota. Just make sure if the strap rubs on any metal edge to pad the strap at the possible chafe area. Used the same straps to move my Mill and Lathe.

Keith

[stuart]

A few points to consider:

- Your state DOT may have specific regulations about securing movable equipment to a trailer. Its worth a look.

- I prefer chain over fabric for a longer trip, no chance of chafing through.

- Most of the time here I see 4 separate chains for the 4 corners. I would avoid a loop, because if one tie breaks or slips, your load is only half secure, and losing the rear chain would make a big mess if you stop quickly.

- see the earlier thread here on 'what do you transport your Kubota on'

[Eric McCarthy]

As a truck driver for a living Stuart is 100% correct. Legally there needs to be four seperate chains with blinders and in some case's a fifth chain and binder if theres a boom, such as a backhoe. Me personally and professionally use the ratchet type load binder's. They are alot easier to use with chains, and are alot tighter and stay put better then the lever binder. I'd reccomend wraping the individual chains over the front and rear axel and then tighten them down. You can pick up chain's fairly inexpensive by the foot at Home Depot or Lowe's. Look for chains that are around the Grade 70. Which has a W.L.L {working load limit} of 4,700 lb.

Here's a link to a place I buy from all the time incase you cant find chains in your home town.
http://www.awdirect.com/grade-70-pre-made-chain-w-clevis-grab-hooks-4700-lb-wll-5-16-in-x-10-ft-11516g710/safety-recovery-chains/

[Gary]

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking around the axels sounded better.

[Eric McCarthy]

What I've been useing for years and work fantastic for me is I run a clevis hitch threw the draw bar on the back of the tractor and run a chain threw that with a binder. And then I run another chain threw the front suite case bracket.

http://tandjperformance.com/store/images/clevis.jpg

[Sam427]

I use the 3" ratchet straps, but I usually don't go that far.

Probably more important than that is loading and unloading, always chock the wheels. I did a really stupid move yesterday, I was tired and exhausted from working in the heat, and forgot to choke the wheels. The place where I have to unload at one location is on a slight hill. Started driving the tractor off the trailer and it unloaded the wheels on the truck. Truck, trailer, tractor with me in it, all started sliding down the hill. Panic was the immediate reaction, so I stopped the tractor, then I realized I needed to get the weight off the tongue and on the ground, so I immediately started driving off the trailer, the ramp dug in and stopped the slide. It only moved about 30 feet in the whole process, talk about a ride!:eek:

[Eric McCarthy]

NEVER NEVER NEVER load or unload on a hillside for that very reason. You got lucky this time and it could have been a nasty mess. Always leave your trailer hitched to the truck while loading and unloading. I'd stear clear of straps unless they are the 4 inch wide straps that are rated for 4,500lbs or more. I have web straps on my tractor trailer at work and they dont last long at all. About every 3 to 6 months they get replaced. And they are constantly breaking in half, even when I use plastic corner protectors on any sharp edges. I know a short trip doesnt seem feasable to need chains but alot can go wrong in even the shortest of trips.

[Sam427]

NEVER NEVER NEVER load or unload on a hillside for that very reason. You got lucky this time and it could have been a nasty mess. Always leave your trailer hitched to the truck while loading and unloading. I'd stear clear of straps unless they are the 4 inch wide straps that are rated for 4,500lbs or more. I have web straps on my tractor trailer at work and they dont last long at all. About every 3 to 6 months they get replaced. And they are constantly breaking in half, even when I use plastic corner protectors on any sharp edges. I know a short trip doesnt seem feasable to need chains but alot can go wrong in even the shortest of trips.

Don't have an option to unload on flat ground at the one place, and the trailer was attached to the truck, it took the weight off the rear wheels of the truck, emergency brake was on and in park, both back tires were sliding on the truck. I've unloaded there a dozen times or more, but I always chocked the wheels, or had someone in the truck with the brakes on. Just got hot and tired and wasn't thinking. Heat index was 110 over there, just miserable.

[Bulldog]

Although I agree that chains and binders are the proper way to secure a load but I hate to see all the orange paint chips being scratched off my tractor. I use ratchet straps with a 5000# load limit and have never had any trouble with them. Just be sure to place them where they won't be going over sharp edges that will cut the straps.

[rbphoto]

As a truck driver for a living Stuart is 100% correct. Legally there needs to be four seperate chains with blinders and in some case's a fifth chain and binder if theres a boom, such as a backhoe. Me personally and professionally use the ratchet type load binder's. They are alot easier to use with chains, and are alot tighter and stay put better then the lever binder. I'd reccomend wraping the individual chains over the front and rear axel and then tighten them down. You can pick up chain's fairly inexpensive by the foot at Home Depot or Lowe's. Look for chains that are around the Grade 70. Which has a W.L.L {working load limit} of 4,700 lb.

Here's a link to a place I buy from all the time incase you cant find chains in your home town.
http://www.awdirect.com/grade-70-pre-made-chain-w-clevis-grab-hooks-4700-lb-wll-5-16-in-x-10-ft-11516g710/safety-recovery-chains/

I'm curious (and not doubting you at all) where you find the information regarding why one must have 4 chains (or more) to be legal.

Raymond

[Eric McCarthy]

I'm curious (and not doubting you at all) where you find the information regarding why one must have 4 chains (or more) to be legal.

Raymond

Just from being a truck driver over the past 10 years. D.O.T sends out a notice to the bossman and he passes that info on to the drivers. Also my brother is a police officer here in my home town, so for me I kinda know the important stuff before most people do.

[Eric McCarthy]

Don't have an option to unload on flat ground at the one place, and the trailer was attached to the truck, it took the weight off the rear wheels of the truck, emergency brake was on and in park, both back tires were sliding on the truck. I've unloaded there a dozen times or more, but I always chocked the wheels, or had someone in the truck with the brakes on. Just got hot and tired and wasn't thinking. Heat index was 110 over there, just miserable.



Well if a hill is your enemy loading and unloaded I'd suggest getting a pair of jack stands and placing them under the assend of the trailer just under your ramps so when you start to back off the trailer the assend will land ontop of the jackstands and not sink down to the ground causing a sea-saw effect with your pickup. Also on the cheap if you have some scrap timber a few hunks of either 4x4's or 6x6 timbers will do the same thing.

[rbphoto]

Just from being a truck driver over the past 10 years. D.O.T sends out a notice to the bossman and he passes that info on to the drivers. Also my brother is a police officer here in my home town, so for me I kinda know the important stuff before most people do.

Part of my day job is serving as a transportation manager overseeing a fleet of 44 vehicles - 32 of which are DOT certified. We haul scissor lifts & forklifts all over the SE US and I would appreciate a link or reference to the section where DOT communicates that information.

Much thanks.

Raymond

[Eric McCarthy]

Check out either the DOT website or JJ Keller.

www.dot.gov
www.jjkeller.com

[Green Mountain Slim]

I wish the guy ahead of me today was reading this thread. He had a 18 - 24 HP tractor, BX I think, on a trailer with one 1400 lb strap across the brush guard from the looks. Kinda like straping a riding lawn mover down with a bungee cord. :mad:

I think I've said this in a similar thread, the State of Vermont doesn't give "advice" on straping things down to the average driver with a trailer. I'm amazed that I haven't seen more accidents in my lifetime with unsecured loads like cars, tractors, and a few other things amateurs haul around. :eek:

[Eric McCarthy]

OH NO NO NO!!! Not down here in Virginia buddy. Down here we can get tickets for not having enough straps or chains to secure a load. If a strap happens to break and bust open we can be charged with "allowing a load to leak" or a "unsecure load" fine. Also if your cleaning up brush and debris around your home and hauling to the landfill it best have a tarp covering it or you can be charged for not covering the load with a tap. They are verry particular around here!!!

[rbphoto]

Found the DOT page . . .

http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/truck/vehicle/cs-policy.htm

Securing a load is both weight and length dependent.

Raymond