Adding Aux Hydraulics to a B6000

[TopGear]

Hi

I am the proud owner a Kubota B6000 which I have had for a few months now. Its one amazing little tractor - build like a tank. I'm sure the 'B' stands for "BEAST" as this little machine truly amazes me with what it can do.

Anyway I built a three point linkage crane for it (see attached photo) and now want to build a front end loader for it as well. The first process is identifying where I can get hydraulic power from. I've seen others connecting to the port underneath the seat (not sure where return goes though) but mine doesn't seem to have a valve just a 'plug' like the 'Iranian' models listed in the B6000 parts manual. I'd also like to use the 3 point linkage and loader at the same time so am not too keen on this option. I've also seen other B series tractors (B7100) and read on this forum (B61000) about using an integration block on the hydraulic lines running from the motor to the back end. unfortunately my tractor doesn't have the integration block and I'm wondering what exactly this is and does it have a part number?

I know the part number for the diverter block is 70070-00385 from previous posts but what is the part number for the integration block? Also what exactly are these blocks? are they anything special or can I simply just tap into these lines myself to get aux hydraulic power?
I realize the aux hydraulic power is limited due to the B6000's small hydraulic pump but it will be enough for my needs as I plan on using small dia. hydraulic rams.

I'm also sure others would be interested in adding some quick release hydraulic fittings on these lines to power various hydraulic implements as well. So if someone can shed some light on the integration block (how its works and what it is doing) and the diverter block it would be really useful.

Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers John

[dusty-t]

Hey Topgear. I had a b6000 and I agree the B should stand for Beast. But that Boom looks like it could lift 20 ton. As far as hydraulics I myself would probably go with an external system either off of the pto or off the crank. With the front loader you could put a reservoir in the uprites for the loader. And keep in mind the tractor will steer harder with the loader. If you are going to build the loader as heavy as the rear boom it will for sure steer harder. Good luck and keep us posted.

[TopGear]

Hi Dusty

yes agree the boom is totally over engineered, however it was built out of scrap I had laying around so it didn't cost me anything :) apart from a few welding rods and angle grinder disks! I use it to lift 50-60 kg rocks around and its good for that purpose, but being on the back has many mechanical disadvantages for lifting anything really heavy.

I've thought about using an external hydraulic system for the loader, but don't really like this option. A rear mounted PTO pump means the PTO needs to be on for the loader to work and I haven't seen too many easy/or cheap options for mounting a hydraulic pump to the main fly wheel out front. I only use the machine for hobby purposes so speed of the loader doesn't worry me and I think i will get away with using the Kubota's own hydraulic system, also less to go wrong - I just need to find a way to tap into it.

The photo below shows the two way cock below the seat which i am guessing is an optional extra as my tractor doesn't have the cock - its like the insert in the diagram with no cock. I've seen other B6000 on the net using this cock and outlet to power a loader. However I am lead to believe that its a case of either using the loader or the 3 point linkage and this lever or cock selects which one and I'm not particularly keen on this as I would want to add a counter weight on the 3 point linkage when using the loader.

A 'nicer' option I think is to tap into the hydraulic lines on the right of the machine using an 'integration block'. I've seen these on B7100 with loaders. However my B6000 doesn't have this integration block and I'd be interested to see if I can buy and attach this item or alternatively just find out what exactly it does and make up my own. Anyway if someone can shed some light on this it would be appreciated. Is it possible to simply cut these lines and add some quick fit hydraulic fittings for the supply and return lines? or is there something more complicated going on inside this 'integration block'?

Anyway hopefully someone can shed some light on this.

Cheers John

P.S. When I first brought the Kubota I changed all fluids and when changing the front axle fluids found out they were dry :eek: anyway i pulled them apart and they looked pretty shocking see photo below and full of shot bearings but the machine had kept on working :D Anyway after some new bearings and new oil seals and a few afternoons of my time it was all back together again and as good as new. The cogs still looked fine and still looked like they would see the life of the tractor out, but it just goes to show you how much abuse these little machines can take. It still amazes people when they see what a 12.5 hp machine can do compared to there 20+ hp ride on mowers! I think its crazy Kubota isn't still making this model - its the stuff of legends! I'm sure it would climb a vertical wall if you let it! its like a full size 100hp tractor scaled down to fit in your pocket!

[dusty-t]

Hey Topgear here is a picture of the valve on my B7200. I hope you can see it alright. I scanned it with my printer and coudn't get the resolution low enough to upload. So I brought it up on my computer screen and took a picture of it.

[dusty-t]

That block sits beside the brake pedal in the line from the hydraulic pump. The outlet on the right of the picture is an outlet port, the one on the left is an inlet. If you take power out from the one port you must return power back in the second port or you have no 3pt hitch. but as you can see this is a very simple valve if you put a valve in that line from the pump to the 3ph and still have power to the 3ph you should be good to go. But you must understand this is coming from an amature. You really need to get to know about open and closed hydraulic systems, and you may already be familiar with them. But when Guys like me and you mess around with stuff like this we sometimes bugger our hygraulic pump. Or maybe snap the shaft in your steering box because that power steering ram shot out like a rocket. OK My b7200 had a loader on it. The out port went to the loader and the power out from the loader went into the second port to the 3ph.

[Mr. K]

Dusty, that's what I call taking a "screen shot". :D If you want to skip taking your camera out in the future and send someone something that's on your monitor here's how:

1) press the "Print Screen" button on your keyboard - usually up above the "home" and "page up" keys, near the top

2) open up microsoft's paintbrush program

3) in paintbrush, go to Edit->Paste and you'll see whatever was on your screen drop into view

4) in paintbrush, save your image as a .jpg and you're ready to go

[Service Dept Vic]

There will be a test at the end of this section, not on how to add hydraulics, but how to do a screen shot!

Your B6000 will not the integration block as it is a JDM B6000. You can access hydraulic power this way:

Cut an 8-10" section of the main hydraulic pressure line off (the thin steel line) about 5-6" downline from where the line exits the hydraulic pump. a.

Braze on a male JIC hydraulic hose fitting onto the stub that comes off the hydraulic pump. This will allow you to attach a hydraulic hose to your loader control or joystick, and will now become "hydraulic power in".

Braze on a similar male JIC fitting onto the other end of the steel line that you have removed a section from. This will now become the point at which you attach a hydraulic hose from the loader control or joystick, returning hydraulic power and fluid back to the tractor.

Don't worry about a 3rd "power beyond" hydraulic line, you won't need it.

The B6000 Hydraulic pump chimes out 2.8GPM at 100% EFF, with an allowable 2.4GPM at 85% EFF minimum. Relief valve will open at 1200PSI, so you should have lots of pressure and GPM to operate a loader.

If shop building a loader, I would recommend you use 2 lift cylinders of a max 1.5" dia, and 1 dump/rollback cylinder of the same dia, centered mid bucket since the tractor has such a small hydraulic system capacity.

Build the loader safe, but don't overbuild it either. Remember, the cylinders will have to lift the loader and the material in the bucket.

[dusty-t]

Thanks Mr k. for the instructional. And thanks for gettin in there Vic.I was way over my head on this one. Busting your own stuff is fine.It's called learning the hard way. But helping someone else bust there stuff online is just wrong. In person , yes, online no.I was mostly worried about him dead heading the pump.

[TopGear]

Hi Dusty, Vic

Thanks for all your help. Its greatly appreciated. Don't worry Dusty I work by the motto that 'if you can't break it you don't own it':D Also if you don't throw some ideas around you don't get anywhere;) So thanks again for your help.

So based on Vic's description I have mocked up a diagram showing the proposed way of adding a loader controller value to the b6000, which simply just involves tapping into the supply line. Could you confirm what I have drawn is correct? and also that this setup will allow the loader and 3 point linkage to work at the same time? Also Vic can I ask why no hydraulic integration block is needed on the JDM models?

Cheers John

[TopGear]

Hi

Sorry in my hast to draw up a diagram I believe the previous version shows the return line cut rather than the supply:eek: as you indicate Vic. Can you please comment on this 'hopefully' correct version based on your description.

Cheers John

[Mr. K]

Hey John, those diagrams look pretty good! :D Nice work.

[Service Dept Vic]

Your FIRST drawing was correct. It shows cutting out a section of the "pressurized" line, which will be much smaller that the fatter "suction" line, which also shows a suction filter.

Your drawing shows an integration block located just outside the pump, but looking at the initial pictures of your Kubota B6000, it looks like a "gray market" version because of the tires.

The JDM B6000's (gray market versions) didn't have a hydraulic integration block because the use of a front end loader was not on the design engineers radar. The US versions always had them.

You'll be able to use the 3 point and the loader at the same time, but without much speed as you'll be starved for hydraulic flow and power, only because the system is so small to begin with. The loader will operate fine, the 3 point will operate fine. Just not well at the same time (slow).

[Service Dept Vic]

Dusty-t, you know your stuff!

[TopGear]

Hi Vic

Thanks for the clarification. Yes I'm pretty sure my Kubota is gray market as it doesn't have the integration block. The diagram I used is from the parts manual which I think is based on the non-gray market version - but nearly everything appears the same and anything I've ordered off my local Kubota dealer using the B6000 manual I have fits.

My B6000 also seems to have smaller front ag tires then some others I have seen on the web, such as the one in the attached picture - but I'm sure they are original. I am planning on building my loader to have similar physical dimensions to this one in the attached photo, however with straight or parallel main arms (to the bonnet) rather than the angled ones shown.

Anyway I'll keep you posted on how I go. thanks again for your help.

Cheers John

[todddrummey]

Hi Top Gear,

I'm a little late reading your post but I will make a comment in case you haven't started building yet.

I have a B6000 with the loader shown in your last post. It has an external pump which is powered by a belt off the fan pulley. It works fine. Plenty of pressure and speed. The pump is mounted to a small plate attached to the loader frame.

[TopGear]

Hi Todddrummey

Thanks for the post. I've actually been in the US for a few weeks with work so haven't had a chance to start building the FEL yet. However I have managed to pick up a brand hydraulics open center controller for $150 which has made me very happy compared to prices back in oz! Anyway I'm home next week and plan to start building sometime in the next few weeks.

Any chance you could take some photo's and post of your hydraulic pump - showing mounting plate and maybe even some details of the pump? I'm still thinking I will go with the onboard hydraulics (keeps costs and complexity down) but a belt driven pump is attractive:)

Thanks again for your suggestions - its one I had not come across

Cheers John

[todddrummey]

John,

I will try to take a few pictures for you later this week.

[todddrummey]

Hi John,

I think I have attached a few pictures of the loader to this message. The subframe has two components; two heavy steal rails that run from the engine block back to the rear case which support the loader posts. Then there is a another piece mounted to the front bumper. Tubular support rods connect the top of the posts to the bumper. There is also a small tube and flange which supports the hydraulic pump. This is aligned so that the pump pulley lines up with the fan pulley on the engine.

Hope this helps

Todd



258 261 259 260

[TopGear]

Hi

Well thanks for the photos. They have been a real help. I've started building and have also had some luck. I picked up a B6000 subframe for $50 and also a 1.4m bucket. The subframe bolted straight on (30 bolts latter!) so has been a real find. I'm not sure what it was off as it has some strange connections - possibly not a loader however it looks super strong and ties in the back axles with the front frame. The bucket is 1.4m wide so I plan on cutting it down to around 1.1m width - the same or slightly larger than the rear wheels. I think its a BX bucket - previous user upgraded to a 4 way. Anyway these two parts have made the loader build so much simpler. A few pictures attached.


Also I plan on mounting the hydraulic control levers in a vertical position rather than a standard horizontal position - it will line up better with hose connections. Anyone see a problem with this? All the one's I have seen have been mounted horizontal.

More pictures to come soon.

[dusty-t]

Hey Topgear. That subframe sure looks strong enough. The fact that it ties into the rear axle housing is good. I see some of the newer tractors that don't have that and I always wondered why they don't. My b7200 has it. Anyway it's looking good so far. Keep us posted.:cool:

[Service Dept Vic]

Top Gear,

What kind of wax have you been using on the hood of that B6000, cuz I don't thinks it's workin!

[TopGear]

Hi Vic

Yes I think I need my money back for that wax! It was like it when I brought it:p, but a respray is the next job after the loader build. I've already brought all the decals (some hard to find - like the pto speed one) and plan on following your article on respraying to make it look new:D

Just need to finish the loader first.

Cheers John

[TopGear]

A little progress. Just about completed the uprights which I made from 75x75x6.5 mm RHS which I had laying around. Figured I could go a little heavy here as its not being lifted:D and also made the mounting plate for control lever. Now moving onto the loader arms which I am building out of 75x50x4mm RHS.
I've been thinking about adding self - levelling arms but don't think its worth the hassle. Also its extra weight.

Any suggestions welcomed on design improvements!

[TopGear]

Well its starting to look like a loader now. Main arms are finished and I have mounted the main lift rams. I have also added cross bracing back to the front bumper. Seems to work well. Anyway next weekend I will add the bucket tilt rams and attachment pins to the bucket. They look like they should work fine. Getting close to having something workable soon:D

[dusty-t]

Hey Topgear, looks good,theres nothing like having a loader. You can use it for so many jobs. Keep up the good work.:cool:

[ipz2222]

Consturctive critisim. It's free, if you don't like it , throw it in the trash.
My kind of guy. Let's build something!!!!
The upper arm, that goes from the rear hinge to the bucket. Half way between those where it makes the 40% bend(approx). That needs a flat gussett on both inside and ouside, maybe1/8 to 3/16 thick.
The small square tube that comes down to the front bumper<anchor>. That is going to bend right at the junction where it's welded to the front anchors. All that weight of the bucket and what's in it will be trying to twist the rear support fwd, pushing on the square tube fwd, bending the square tube that goes over to those anchor blocks.
These are my opinions (ipz2222) and do not represent "orangetractortalks",
unless of course they all agree. (BG)
Forgot one. It looks like that bucket will be able to go high. The higher that bucket goes up , the easier it is to turn over. BTDT

[TopGear]

Hi Ipz2222

Thanks for the advice, its actually good to have people give some thoughts.
I had planned on adding a gussett as you suggest and wanted to incorporate the mounting pin for the bucket tip ram at this point. I thought I would just weld 4mm plate both sides for these. I haven't attached the front bucket tip rams yet but will hopefully do that this weekend and post some snaps. I wanted to do something similar to whats attached in the image below.
Regarding the cross brace smaller tube I will try and beef this up somehow. Again maybe weld some flat traingular sections where they attach? Any thoughts or suggestions? I went with 32x32x4mm square tube as I had this on hand and hoped it would be strong enough. So I will try beefing things up here as well. The loader attached in the images below on a B7100 seemed a little heavy so I have gone slightly smaller to fit the B6000 but used a similar attachment profile for the cross brace. I also think I will gusset the cross brace between the two loader arms as well with plate.

Regarding height the main lift arms lift to about 1.8m high. I wanted to be able to tip the bucket up and get around 2m height so I can dress sheep and pigs with it. Anyway I take your point and will no doubt make a shade cover (aka roll over bar) just to be on the safe side:D
The Kubota 1630 loaders from the manual specs seemed to have similar lift characteristics so I have tried to stick similar with that.

Anyway thanks for the feedback. keep it coming. It is really helpful.

Cheers John

[ipz2222]

""Again maybe weld some flat traingular sections where they attach? Any thoughts or suggestions? ""

I think that would do it. Just make sure it goes to the point where that anchor is welded to the frame<large cross bar>.

[TopGear]

Well I have now pretty much finished all the welding. All rams are attached and gussets in place on loader arms and have attached the bucket. A few things to tidy up once I take it off again for painting. However I'm now ready to install the hydraulic lines and will go and get them made up this week. Planning on putting quick connects on the control valve so I can put the loader on and off as needed.

A few more photo's. Nearly there!!:D

Cheers John

[dusty-t]

Hey John, I was just wondering about that 1inch square tubing to the front of the tractor. The loader on my b8200 has something like 1/2 x 2 flatbar going to the front but the crossbar on the front is like 2 in pipe. Your subframe is super heavy so maybe you don't need much support to the front. I'm just wondering is all. All in all it's a lot better job than I could do. You are going to love the loader.:D

[Service Dept Vic]

Ya, I'm thinking what Dusty-t is thinking and that is the small square tubing up there looks real small!

Nice fab up/retro-fit. Wish I could weld and fab like that!

[TopGear]

Well its finally finished. I got the hydraulic hoses hooked up this week and have spent all day trying it out.

The verdict - its a beauty:D I can lift at least 200kg easily and it seems to work really well. The stock standard hydrualic pump works fine. Its maybe a little slow lifting main rams up but nothing I can't live with. Indeed it seems as strong as an ox:D

Anyway now I will pull it off and paint it and weld some of the harder to access places I couldn't get too when building it and also add some more bracing. Regarding the cross bracing I think its strong enough - 32mmx32mmx3mm RHS. I worked it pretty hard trying to break things today and couldn't seem to get anything to fail.

Anyway a big thank you to those on the list who helped out and gave some advice - Dusty T, Service Dept Vic, Todddrumey and all the others who helped.

I'll post some more photo's when I get it painted.

So whats better than a Kubota B6000? A B6000 with a loader:p !!!

Cheers John

P.S. Yes the Beast will also be painted as well - not just the loader!

[dusty-t]

Wow TopGear that look's fantastic. That loader lifts a lot higher than the one on my B8200. Mind you it was off of a B7200 but still no where near that high. I am thinking I will do some modifications. Great job. It takes a fair size set of stones to take on a project like that. Great job.:D

[chiefbuzzbee]

John,
I have been following your progress and must say Great Job! It looks great and very well done and you have to love that B6000 it is a Beast. I like your ballast box how did you come with the size? and weight? Also did you make wheel weights or are they factory if so where can I find them?

John one thing I would suggest get, build or what ever it takes a ROP for your safety the B6000 is easy to roll over so I found out. But luckily I got off before it did but if I hadn't it would have been real deadly. :eek: Besides I want to see what you come up with next......:D

[TopGear]

Hi Guys

I built the blast box for the back. Based size on getting a roughly 250-300kg weight at the back to counter act the loader. Filled it with concrete which has a density of 2400 kg/m3

So 2400 x width in metres x height in metres x length in metres of the box will give the weight in kg. So my box dimensions are about 0.8m x 0.4m x 0.3m which is filled with concrete. The concrete weight is about 230kg and the box itself is about 50-60 kg. I don't have any wheel weights. One thing I also did which has been good was to add some small rippers onto the bottom of the box. These are about 15cm long and with the weight of the box they really dig in. I have found them handy for ripping up hard compacted dirt which the loader won't bite into. After a pass over with the rippers I can then get it with the loader.

Yes lift is pretty high which I have found pretty handy so far. But as a few have pointed out I will add a rops.

Anyway I will post some more photo's when I get it painted. I also made the loader quick detach which is really handy so you don't have to lump it around when slashing or rotary hoeing. I've had in on and off a few times now and it only take a minute or two to put on or off.

Cheers John

[dusty-t]

Wow topgear that idea with the rippers ,:cool: boy do I like that.

[stevesb5100e]

Hi all, new member to the site. I just purchased a B5100e tractor from a local Kubota dealer. I am wanting to build a snow blade for it, and planned on building a frame work that attached at the rear (not sure where yet) and then ran along under the tractor and build a bracket that mounts to that front "bumper" area of the frame to attach the lift cylinder. My question is, where can I get hydraulics on this tractor? I dont really care if I am able to lift the 3ph and the front at the same time.... any info would be great..

[TopGear]

Hi Steve

If you read this thread all the way through you should get an idea of the options available. If you only what a single acting cylinder than by far the easiest is to use the tap off port located between your legs. It has a valve which will direct the hydraulic flow to your cylinder and can be operated with the 3ph lever.

If you need double acting cylinder (i.e. push and pull both ways) then cut into the pressure line as documented in this thread. This is also reasonably easy. Just take the pressure line off (two bolts and I bracket) and take it to a hydraulic or tractor mechanic workshop and they will be able to cut and solder in fittings easily and cheaply. You will however have to then add an open centre hydraulic valve to control the cylinder. I'll take some photo's of my install and post here when I get a chance of this option.

Cheers John

[stevesb5100e]

Thanks TopGear,

I just picked the tractor up today, it looks to be in fairly good condition, need a wax job for sure. It is a little hard starting... i'm going to check and see if both glow plugs are working..... aside from that, I wanted the hydraulics for a front mounted snow blade, and after talking to the dealer, They recomended buying one of the better ATV blades, and then just attaching a cylinder to lift it up, which could be done with the 3ph valve.. I'll take some pics when I get it into the shop... thanks again

[Service Dept Vic]

Topgear, Nice lookin' loader! Great job.

[Greg]

TopGear, Sweet job on the loader build! Will we see finished pictures? I hope so.

[TopGear]

Hi

Well I ran into a big problem with my loader;)

Its been too useful to take off and paint:D So as yet I haven't got a chance yet to paint it. Its also been too hot over here in our summer for painting so i will wait until it cools off a little.

I have however finished cutting the bucket down, took 8 9inch angle grinding wheels to do but it looks and operates a lot better and matches the loader size better too.

Anyway I am really happy with how it has turned out. How I just need to paint her! Don't worry I will post some more pics when its painted.

Cheers john

[TopGear]

Also built some forks for the loader as well over the weekend for picking up logs. They are a bit rough but they didn't cost me anything apart from time and they seem to do the trick.

So now all thats left to do is paint it all!

[TopGear]

Well painting has started. I decided to paint the 16inch rear rims to replace the 14 inch ones that were originally on the B6000 as my first job.
Previously I brought Kubota orange and blue paint for the main body but wasn't sure I had enough to do the wheels as well based on vic's suggested amount of cans. Anyway I went into a super cheap auto store to buy some white for the wheel rims. However they also had 'International Orange' so I thought I would try this out. Turns out its nearly a perfect match to the early Kubota orange - see attached photo's. Anyway at $3.50 a can it sure beats Kubota's paint at $27.50 a can!
Pity I've already brought enough Kubota paint for the main body and panels - but for any further paint jobs 'International Orange' looks like a real winner!
Especially for some of my home made implements!

Cheers John

Now to finish painting the rest!

[dusty-t]

Lookin good John. Keep the pics coming.:D Dusty

[TopGear]

Well I have finished painting all the panels and the loader frame. Now just the blue bits left to go and then add the decals!

A few snaps attached. Found the $22 kubota paint no different to the $4 'International Orange':( I used the kubota paint on the tractor panels and the 'International Orange' on the loader. Will be interesting to see if one or the other lasts longer.

Cheers John

[traildust]

The paint looks very nicely done!
As you mentioned it will be interesting to see which of the two paints last longer.


Scott

[dusty-t]

Looks great John, can't wait to see the finished tractor.:D Dusty

[TopGear]

Hi

Well its finally finished :). Its taken awhile but the little beast is now all painted and put back together. I think it turned out alright.

Also put new tyres all round. 7x16 on back and 6x12 on the fronts. I previously had rice tyres on and these new R1 lugs make it run soo much smoother:p

I think it looks pretty sweet with all new decals. Now all I need is a new steering wheel!

Some pics attached along with a before shot!

Cheers John

[TopGear]

A few more snaps!
I also added an hour meter to take the guess work out of servicing intervals;)

Cheers John

[GpaG]

Very, very nice!

[ptwyz]

TopGear, that is just soooo awesome mannn :eek: , Nice job :D .

[traildust]

John,
That is some fine looking craftsmanship, everything came out looking spot on!


Well, except for that steering wheel you mentioned. It's really not doing any of your hard work justice :p


Scott

[dusty-t]

Really nice John, it looks great.:D Dusty

[handyman]

Topgear I have to say that thing does look good. How much weight is the bucket able to lift safely? I am curious you have really done a great job on the bucket and frame attachment. I am curious about the weight and height. Again looks good. handy

[TopGear]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the kind words and thanks for everyones help earlier on. I couldn't have done it without the help and advice from this list.

Regarding lift weight about 200kg lift capacity. It handles full 44 gallon drums which was my goal. However I need the weight on the back which is pictured in one of my earlier snaps in this thread when lifting around this mark.

I'm keeping my eye out for a new (or newer steering wheel):D

Cheers John

[handyman]

Thanks topgear for the answer that does look good:D. I know you will really enjoy it. handy

[dookanooka]

hi TopGear,
could I ask some daft questions :confused:

I have a loader frame for my B6000 and am looking to get the hydraulic cylinders and other fittings for it. What is the best way to measure the length of cylinder you need? Also, what size fittings did you get when you cut the pipe to the tractors pump? What size hydraulic hose did you use? Did you follow advice elsewhere about 1.5" bore? Any info. on the hydraulics would be really greatly appreciated.

Also, could you recommend a good place in Australia to source the hydraulics?

thanks,
Dookanooka

[ipz2222]

Fantastic!!! I'm glad to see you decreased the size of that bucket. The gussets you added will handle the load. Great job.

[TopGear]

Hi Dookanooka

I brought my hydraulic cylinders 1st and then built the loader frame around them. I used 1.5 on main lift rams and 1 on the bucket tip cylinders.
Hydraulic hose size was 3/8.

I brought my cylinders from www.dieseltraders.com.au - happy with them and they have worked fine but paint quality is poor but they function well and were at the right price.

Cheers John

[maximus]

Hi Dookanooka

I brought my hydraulic cylinders 1st and then built the loader frame around them. I used 1.5 on main lift rams and 1 on the bucket tip cylinders.
Hydraulic hose size was 3/8.

I brought my cylinders from www.dieseltraders.com.au - happy with them and they have worked fine but paint quality is poor but they function well and were at the right price.

Cheers John

Hi John,

Some really great stuff here.

When you attached the hydraulics control lever valve, did you have to run a third hose back to the hydraulic reservoir (sometimes labelled T on the spooler valve) or did you only need the two hoses - one from the cut pipe to the lever valve, and the second back to the cut pipe? (A local dealer said I needed the third hose, otherwise the bucket cannot be lowered!)

Also, thanks for the diameter size of the rams - How long where the rams that you bought, both closed and fully extended?

Thanks for the posts John. Been a great help. :)


Chris

[koppel]

Hi there,

well I just added a second hand FEL to my B7100. I did 2 EXTRA things to make sure it worked well.

1. I added a 10micron hydraulic oil filter ( 200bar pressure capable type) in the return line from my FEL. This is to stop any foreign matter getting back into my HST transmission oil. The onboard hydraulic pump uses the transmission oil resevoir as its supply point. Reason for my use of the high pressure capable filter, is that the return oil from loader can be routed to the Rear 3 point ram and at full travel can still reach full pump relief valve pressure at "filter point" I chose in the hydraulic circuit.

My hydraulic rams are a tad sorry in the chrome plating and I also want to add 3 valve with quick couplers to a front inplement so I really wanted to protect my transmisson oil supply from any external contamination.

Later I plan to add a separate hyraulic pump with its own oil tank.

2. A Certified roll over frame, with seat belt.

I will add some pics later

Good luck building your loader.

regard
david

[dookanooka]

hi John,
thanks for the reply. I can definitely see the benefit in making a loader around the cylinders, it makes life much easier later. I'm having trouble sourcing the welded end tube type cylinders in Australia that I need for the existing frame. You look like you used the single metal tab to connect them to the frame, mine has 2 tabs. Also, i'm being a bit rough in my choice of cylinder retracted length to what looks to be available vs exact fit, hoping that's ok as long as the cylinders not too short to fit at all. As I say, i've found cylinders in the US, but boy the shipping's a killer! I shall try DieselTraders though.

By the way, when you brazed on the fittings to the thin hydraulic tubing, did you use a blowtorch for that, or Oxy? I'm wondering how easy it would be without a serious gas setup.

[maximus]

hi John,
thanks for the reply. I can definitely see the benefit in making a loader around the cylinders, it makes life much easier later. I'm having trouble sourcing the welded end tube type cylinders in Australia that I need for the existing frame. You look like you used the single metal tab to connect them to the frame, mine has 2 tabs. Also, i'm being a bit rough in my choice of cylinder retracted length to what looks to be available vs exact fit, hoping that's ok as long as the cylinders not too short to fit at all. As I say, i've found cylinders in the US, but boy the shipping's a killer! I shall try DieselTraders though.

By the way, when you brazed on the fittings to the thin hydraulic tubing, did you use a blowtorch for that, or Oxy? I'm wondering how easy it would be without a serious gas setup.

Hi Dookanooka,

You could use 12mm male compression fittings instead.

Cheers

Chris

[Rob]

yep, i used compression fittingson my install , work just fine with not a sign of a leak anywhere.
you can just see one of the connections in the bottom of the pic below, thats the hydraulic line going onto the 3pt hitch, i just cut a small section out big enough to allow me to get the two hydraulic lines and fitting connected up.


http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy358/Redsps/tractor%20front%20blade/woodshedtractorblade021.jpg

also replaced the twin bucket rams for a single item,also works well with no probs at the moment.
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy358/Redsps/August%20tractor%20pics/augusttractor020.jpg

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy358/Redsps/August%20tractor%20pics/augusttractor002.jpg

rob

[dookanooka]

Very pleased to hear I don't need to braze, thanks for the tip, it'll save much pain!

Nice loader there Rob. It looks like they'll help me putting all the hoses on it too. The 'P' I notice on the control valve. Mine has that too. Should that then go the side closest to the 'P'ump and the one opposite on the rear side going to the oil reservoir I guess.

thanks,
Ben