Getting to Know your Kubota’s Clutch



If you are old enough to drive then you know the basic idea behind a clutch – it is a component of transmission that is designed to allow the engagement or disengagement of the engine to the gearbox. Without a method of temporarily disconnecting these two assemblies you would not be able to shift gears or change direction of travel – both very handy features of your Kubota tractor.

Depending on the model of Kubota tractor you own it will have either a dry clutch or a wet clutch.

Wet Clutch
Certain Kubota tractors use a multiple plate wet disc clutch system that is in-place of the dry clutch. This hydraulic wet clutch offers exceptional durability and a much longer operating life compared to a single dry clutch disc. The wet clutch has a steady stream of filtered hydraulic oil that keeps the clutch discs and plates cool, reducing friction for smoother operation. A mechanically actuated shuttle valve controls the directional flow of oil, allowing the operator to shift between forward and reverse gears without clutching. Kubota’s L2550 or L2650 are two examples that employ a wet clutch.

This image is an example of a wet clutch pack. We see two gear packs - one forward and one reverse. The entire unit is bathed in a lubricating oil.

This image is an example of a wet clutch pack. We see two gear packs - one forward and one reverse. The entire unit is bathed in a lubricating oil.

Dry Clutch
Dry clutch Kubota tractors are ones that operate with a dry asbestos friction disc material. The friction material is pressed tightly against the tractor’s flywheel using springs. They do not last as long as their wet clutch counterparts, but they are cheaper to repair or replace. It is also possible to rebuild a dry clutch and its common to have the disc resurfaced. Most of Kubota’s model lineup use dry clutches. B5100, B6100, B7100, B5200, B6200, B7200, L175, L185, L1801 and so on – all examples of dry clutch Kubota tractors.

A typical dry clutch with asbestos friction material. The springs relieve load shock and help smooth clutching action.

A typical dry clutch with asbestos friction material. The springs relieve load shock and help smooth clutching action.

Kubota’s “Ever Clutch”
The L2650 is an example Kubota that was available with either a wet or dry clutch. L2650s with an “Ever Clutch” decal were fitted with the longer lasting wet clutch system – hence the “Ever”. Other Kubotas that were branded with this decal and the upgraded clutch were the L2950, L3450, L3650, L4350, L4850, L5450, M5700 and M6800.

Components of a Dry Clutch
Dry clutches make up the majority of those found in typical Kubota equipment, so it is these types that we will focus on for the remainder of the article. The dry clutch on your Kubota tractor comprises the following main components:

  • flywheel
  • clutch disc
  • pressure plate
  • clutch release or throw out bearing
  • clutch release fork

Flywheel
The flywheel is a heavy metal disc that is attached to the crankshaft at the rear of the engine. It is precision balanced and of a substantial thickness – typically around 1.5-2″ thick up to 3″ thick on a Kubota M series. These flywheels weigh about 40lbs in a small L series, 55-65lbs in a Grand L series and upwards of 125lbs for the larger 100HP M series.

Flywheels in your Kubota are 1.5-2" thick and typically weigh around 40-50lbs. They store momentum which steadies varying amounts of torque placed on the input shaft of the transmission by the engine.

Flywheels in your Kubota are 1.5-2 inches thick and typically weigh around 40-50lbs. They store momentum which steadies varying amounts of torque placed on the input shaft of the transmission by the engine.

The flywheel stores momentum which means it is able to steady the input shaft of the transmission by smoothing out fluctuating amounts of torque placed upon the shaft by the tractor’s engine. It also has a ring gear with teeth that accepts the starter motor’s drive gear when cranking the engine. A common Kubota service complaint regarding the flywheel is poor starter motor engagement from a worn motor pinion or a badly worn ring gear. In this case, often a shudder is felt when releasing the clutch on the tractor. This shudder indicates an imbalance in the flywheel due to general wear or a flywheel that has been machined down in the past and is now over its acceptable tolerance.

Point where the starter's drive gear (smaller gear in center) contacts the flywheel.

Point where the starter's drive gear (smaller gear in center) contacts the flywheel.

A flywheel that is not able to properly dissipate heat extremes will eventually stress-crack. The generated friction can also temper areas on the flywheel resulting in hot spots. These hot spot areas appear as blue burn marks on the surface of the flywheel and indicate a flywheel that is not handling heat properly.

A flywheel with stress cracks due to temperature extremes.

A flywheel with stress cracks due to temperature extremes.

A flywheel with friction hot spots burned into its surface.

A flywheel with friction hot spots burned into its surface.

Flywheel Resurfacing
If you are undertaking splitting of your Kubota tractor to service the clutch it is recommended that you resurface the flywheel – paying particular attention to the appropriate minimum thickness requirement. Kubota further states that the maximum amount of material that can be removed from any flywheel clutch surface is .060” (1.5mm). Post a comment if you require a specification for your Kubota’s flywheel and we’ll reply!

Clutch Disc
The clutch disc is comprised mainly of compressed asbestos with metal filings. This disc is held tightly against the flywheel by the pressure plate. The clutch disc is always in contact with the flywheel and as such, is subject to wear and slipping. Some common Kubota tractor service complaints with the clutch are slippage – due to disc wear, contamination from oil or from hot spotting on the flywheel.

Schematic of a Kubota clutch disc.

Schematic of a Kubota clutch disc.

Oil on the Disc
Oil can contaminate the disc from a bad rear engine main seal, or a bad transmission input shaft seal. Either way, oil on the disc is not good. Oil can also enter the clutch housing area and contaminate the clutch disc by over filling the transmission. The L-1 Series Kubotas, L2050, L2550, L2650 and so on, have a vent hole near top of the transmission, above the input shaft and contained in the clutch housing. Overfilling the transmission/common reservoir will push oil into this area which would then contaminate the clutch disc.

Riding the Clutch
Operators can prematurely wear out the clutch disc in their Kubota tractor by “riding” the clutch pedal. This results from not removing your foot from the pedal when shifting gears. You’ll know the smell of a burning clutch when you smell it – it smells expensive. Avoid riding the clutch by keep your foot on the foot board.

When to Replace the Clutch Disc
Signs that your clutch disc needs replacement:

  • inability to shift the transmission with the engine running without grinding the gears
  • the tractor will not pull a load
  • the tractor will not go up a simple incline
  • slipping, extreme shudder or squealing
  • expensive burnt clutch smell

Storing your Kubota? How to Prevent the Clutch from Rusting to the Flywheel
Kubota recommends that when storing your equipment, have the clutch disc pressure relieved by way of placing a block under the foot board after the clutch pedal has been depressed. This relieves the pressure on the clutch and prevents it from rusting to the flywheel. A clutch rusted to the flywheel is common service complaint is for owners of seasonal Kubotas (only use it in the winter to snowblow or only in the summer to mow). They may use their Kubota so infrequently that when they do attempt to start the tractor, the clutch and transmission are frozen – rusted together.

Kubota recognized this service issue and shipped all L175, L185, L235, L1500, L1501, L1801 and L2000 tractors with a small wooden block, painted black included in the under seat tool box. The block of wood had a yellow decal on it that indicated the correct placement of the block in keeping the clutch pedal depressed during storage. A paper tag with wire was attached to the clutch pedal further reinforcing its use if the tractor was stored and not used for any period of time. Later models like Daedong and Kubota’s joint venture, the 02 Series (L1802, L2002 etc), had a spring button that when pressed down, held the clutch pedal and kept the disc off the pressure plate.

Condensation & Free Play Considerations
Condensation in the clutch housing also creates a problem for the clutch disc. There is a drain at the bottom of the housing that should be opened from time to time to let water egress. If you have an early L175/L1500 and there is no drain plug, drill a small hole at the bottom of the housing to necessitate the removal of condensate from the clutch. Finally, clutch pedal “free play” should be adjusted from time to time as the tractor ages and the disc wears. Post a comment if you require a specification for your equipment.

Pressure Plate
The job of the pressure plate is to maintain constant, even pressure on the clutch disc, holding it in contact with the flywheel. The pressure plate has a precision-ground machined surface that the clutch disc contacts on the transmission side. At the centre of the pressure plate is an array of tensioned spring fingers. When compressed by the clutch release bearing, tension is alleviated on the disc plate and it is then free to rotate, independent of the flywheel. This allows the operator to change gears, or direction of travel.

Some common Kubota service complaints with the pressure plate are similar to those of the flywheel:

  • shudder – from hot spotting on the pressure plate’s machined surface
  • a mushy feeling – indicative of broken or worn springs
  • excessive pedal travel
  • inability to change gears
  • grinding of the transmission even though the clutch pedal is fully depressed
A schematic of a Kubota pressure plate.

A schematic of a Kubota pressure plate.

Clutch Release Bearing and Shift Fork
The clutch release bearing is a precision roller bearing that rides on the transmission input shaft of your Kubota tractor. It is held in place and activated by the clutch fork which in turn is attached to the clutch pedal linkage.

A close up shot of the clutch release bearing.

A close up shot of the clutch release bearing.

The clutch fork straddles the clutch release bearing holder.

The clutch fork straddles the clutch release bearing holder.

The large flat face of the release bearing presses against the spring fingers of the pressure plate to free the clutch disc. Some common Kubota Service complaints with the clutch release bearing are squealing, grinding and chatter when the clutch pedal is lightly pressed, or pressed a little too far (clutch pedal stop is not adjusted properly) and the squeal can persist during travel with the clutch fully engaged.

B Series Kubota tractors have a serviceable release bearing. A grease zerk is accessible from the side of the transmission tunnel. A few strokes keeps that bearing moving freely. Use care not to dislodge the small return spring attached to the bearing.

All or Nothing
If you find yourself in a situation that necessitates the splitting of the tractor to get at the clutch then you should consider replacing all of the serviceable components in there. Do not just install or have installed a new clutch disc. Replace it with a matched pressure plate and have the flywheel machined to the correct spec. Emery cloth and a lot of ambition does not machine a flywheel. When it comes to a Kubota clutch it is best to take an all or nothing approach to its repair – you’ll thank yourself in the long run.

That wraps up our overview of the different types of clutches in Kubota’s equipment and an in-depth look at the mechanics of the dry clutch found in most Kubotas. Read more about your clutch in the related articles below.

Service Department Vic

Related Articles
10 Tips to Save Wear on your Kubota’s Clutch
Kubota L Series Clutch Repair Pricing
Kubota Servicing 101: Part 1 – Air Filter
Forum: Service, Repair & Maintenance

66 Comments »

  1. Greenwood Said,

    January 29, 2009 @ 12:24 am

    Hi, new to this site. I just bought a L2550 with 1981hrs, great tractor. I plan on doing the clutch shorthly as there seems to be some slippage, and I think it has been adjusted fully, its fine until you get over 1500rpm, or in 3-4th gear, (it is a shuttle shift). Is this a dry clutch or wet? Are these an easy tractor to split? What would it roughly cost if i where to get a mechanic to do this? Any info would be great. Thanks in advance, Jamie

  2. Vic Said,

    January 29, 2009 @ 10:47 am

    Jamie,

    Thanks for visiting our site! Your L2550 is a dry clutch tractor with mechanical shuttle shift. You still have to stop direction of travel and “clutch” before shuttling front to back.
    You’re able to shift gears on the fly with the column mounted shifter as the transmission in the L2550 is partially synchronized.

    1981 hours is real low for a Kubota to require a clutch since you may not know the operational and service habits of the previous owner. Your Kubota L2550 may be equipped with either a single disc clutch, or a dual disc clutch.

    The single plate version is just like any car or truck you’ve ever owned with a manual transmission. Step on the clutch, and the disc moves away from the pressure plate allowing you to shift gears.

    Dual disc clutches are really two clutches on top of each other. Two discs, two pressure plates, two spring diaphrams, two times the money, and twice as many adjustments! The clutch disc closest to the flywheel basically controls the tractors PTO with the disc right behind it controlling the transmission.

    This Dual Clutch arrangement allows the operator to depress the clutch pedal about half way down and disengage the transmission. The PTO driven implement will continue to be powered. Depressing the clutch pedal all the way will disengage the PTO and of course the tranmission will also be disengaged.

    Splitting the tractor is not difficult to do, it’s just a lot of dissassembly work before you can actually slide the engine and transmission apart. If you’re going to out-source the job, get an Ag Tech to do this type of job.

    Even though any trained Automotive Service Tech could easily undertake the “twisting” necessary to disassemble your Kubota, Ag Techs have a different skill set when it comes to tractors and agricultural machinery.

    You would expect an Ag Tech to be well outside their comfort level if asked to adjust the “lash” on a 30 Valve Volkswagen Passat engine. Similarily the VW trained technician who could adjust thoses valves in his sleep, would be lost on adjusting the spring diaphams in that dual clutch Kubota. At an 85-125 dollars per hour as a door rate in most Service Shops, you’re going to want someone on that job who knows how to pronounce the word KUBOTA!

    Don’t forget to upload a pic or two of your new Baby on our gallery!

    Service Dept Vic

  3. Greenwood Said,

    January 29, 2009 @ 2:19 pm

    Thanks Vic, a friend of mine is an ag tech so I think I’ll ask him to help with the splitting, he is more into JD and Massey, so is there anything to really know/look out for that might be “Kubota specific” any tips, advice, would be great, again thanks Jamie, another note, the model #is L2550D, what does the D stand for.

  4. Brian Said,

    February 2, 2009 @ 7:34 pm

    I have an L2350 and my clutch release bearing is making noise. Apparently this is because the free-play on the clutch was not adjusted properly and the bearing is not continuous use and it is now noisy. The tractor has about 600 hrs. and the clutch still holds well.

    Can this bearing be greased? Is there a zerk? What can I do to avoid a full clutch job just yet?

    Thanks.

  5. Vic Said,

    February 3, 2009 @ 7:07 pm

    Hi Brian,

    Yep that release bearing on the L2350DT is serviceable and can be greased! Remove the inspection cover plate off the RH side of the bell housing, it’s held in place with two 12mm bolts.

    When you look inside you’ll see the grease zerk, it will be pointing right at you. Check to make sure that the “return” spring you see in there is still attached and functions.

    If that spring falls off or is broken it can also cause the squeal you’re hearing.

    Adjust the clutch pedal free play according to your WSM, grease the zerk and hope that does it. If it’s still noisy after you’ve lubed the crap out of it, then it’s replacement time!

    Service Dept Vic

  6. Brian Said,

    February 3, 2009 @ 9:11 pm

    Vic,

    Thanks for the thorough reply. What is the downside of putting off the clutch replacement or operating the tractor until failure?

    Thanks again.

    Brian.

  7. Brian Said,

    February 3, 2009 @ 9:21 pm

    Opps, I forgot–what kind of grease?

  8. Vic Said,

    February 4, 2009 @ 8:59 am

    Brian, Kubota doesn’t make reference to any particular brand or specification for grease used on your L2350DT, so just use the regular chassis lube that’s probably in your grease gun now.

    The clutch disc will last as long as there is sufficient friction material on the plate. Depress the clutch pedal quickly to disengage, and ease it up to re-engage the clutch.

    The Kubota clutch release bearings tend to make a dry squealing noise when they’re un-lubed or worn. If they go without grease for too long the bearing will seize, and then you’re going to hear more of a metal to metal grinding noise when clutching that eventually leads to disintegration of the bearing.

    In some instances, the overheating of the failed bearing can lead to the part “heat welding” itself to the transmission input shaft. The shaft can be cleaned up, but it’s extra work and extra wear and tear that shouldn’t have to go that far to get the operators attention!

    Service Dept Vic

  9. Brian Said,

    February 5, 2009 @ 1:03 pm

    Vic,

    I pulled the inspection port on the bell housing and there is no grease zerk. I’m wondering if the age of my tractor has something to do with it. I have a mid early 90s tractor ’93 or so.

    Thanks.

  10. Vic Said,

    February 5, 2009 @ 7:25 pm

    Brian,

    I just pulled a parts schematic for that clutch on your L2350 and it looks like the Clutch Release Hub which has been serviceable since, I don’t know, forever, no longer has a grease zerk on it! Doh!

    The Clutch Release Hub is acted upon by the clutch fork you see through that inspection area (which ironically was put there so the release bearing/hub could be greased!)

    Not sure when the change up occured or at what serial number but the Clutch Release Hub and the Bearing used to be one piece.

    When looking at the exploded diagram on your Kubota clutch, the Clutch Release Hub and the Bearing show as two different pieces with two seperate part numbers.

    That doesn’t mean you can’t try applying some high temp lube to the transmission input shaft that the Clutch Release Hub slides on then work the clutch back and forth several times to get the lubricant under the hub.

    Use caution if spraying anything because it can contaminate the clutch disc. It will be real hard to try to get anything into the sealed portion of that bearing without a zerk.

    Let us know how you make out on this project.

    Service Dept Vic
    who should have looked at that schematic in the first place but didn’t think he had to.

  11. Brian Said,

    February 5, 2009 @ 9:51 pm

    Vic,

    WARNING: Here’s a crazy idea.

    What if I drilled and tapped the clutch release hub to accept a zerk? From the exploded view, can you see a place where I can safely drill without damaging the transmission input shaft?

    If it doesn’t work, I’ll just replace the clutch.

    Thanks.

  12. Vic Said,

    February 6, 2009 @ 10:26 am

    Brian,
    That would something that Master Gunnery Sergeant “Gunny Highway” would be proud of! Improvise! The difficult part is drilling to the depth required without drilling into the input shaft.

    Taps are tapered and as such they don’t start “building” thread immediatley. They require some tolerance to get started. The tap may come into contact with the input shaft before it starts making enough thread. You may have better success using a press in grease zerk and skip the tapping part.

    Service Dept Vic

  13. Brian Said,

    February 6, 2009 @ 11:10 am

    Vic,

    Thanks for the guidance.

    Can you send me an exploded view of the clutch release hub?

    Brian.

  14. Brian Said,

    February 7, 2009 @ 10:24 am

    Vic,

    Another thing. Is the clutch release bearing a bearing or really a bushing?

    Also, putting a zerk on the hub may not push grease into the bearing/bushing–can you tell if it will?

    Thanks.

  15. Vic Said,

    February 7, 2009 @ 5:39 pm

    Brian, The release bearing is a sealed roller bearing. When the item was one piece greasing the hub would push grease into the bearing. Since this is now a two piece assembly on your Kubota, grease will not get into the bearing.

    Service Dept Vic

  16. Brian Said,

    February 8, 2009 @ 9:51 pm

    Vic,

    You have confirmed my suspicion. Anyway, I removed the inspection plate and checked the bearing by rotating it by hand and it is rough/worn. So I have made a decision to replace it. This is a pretty hostile environment for a poor quality bearing, the tunnel was damp and lots of surface rust– I am not impressed with Kubota’s design.

    As an aside, I did drill a 5/64″ hole in the bearing housing, being careful not to push any shavings inside and then used a needle zerk fitting to push grease into the bearing. It has helped but is a temporary fix.

    Apparently the “free play” was not adjusted properly and the intermittent use bearing was not up to continuous use. Can you tell me how to adjust this (free play) properly–is it primarily using the linkage adjustment with 1/2″ to 1″ of play before engagement of the bearing with the pressure plate?

    Can you provide me a list of parts with PN’s that should be replaced on my L2350DT when doing a complete clutch job? I have an early model tractor “with the round fenders?”

    Thanks again.

    Brian.

    Is this something that I can tackle myself.

  17. Mr. K Said,

    February 11, 2009 @ 10:08 am

    Hey again Brian – we haven’t forgotten about you regarding part numbers and so on – Vic will be able to get back to you with those within the next day or two.

  18. Brian Said,

    February 12, 2009 @ 11:53 pm

    Mr. K,

    Thanks.

    It is appreciated.

    Brian.

  19. Tony Said,

    February 13, 2009 @ 2:30 pm

    Have a friend in need. He is a friend in-deed.With only 788 hours on this machine.This is his3rd clutch in a L8650 Kubota. I have no idea why this is happening. I have not repaired this tractor. He has taken it to a Kubota dealer each time. Maybe he cant drive the darn thing or the clutch is not adjusted properly or they installed the wrong clutch or maybe they adjusted the old one. I got no clue.
    This tractor has a backhoe attachment.
    Does this tractor have a wet clutch or dry? How do you id it without splitting the tractor I got no book.
    If it is wet how do you adjust?
    If dry how do you adjust?
    Any reason why this is happening?
    Thanks for any help anyone can give
    T.P.

  20. Mr. K Said,

    February 13, 2009 @ 3:18 pm

    Yikes! 3 clutches in under 800 hours? Something is up. I do not know the technical details regarding clutch adjustment, but Service Department Vic does. I’ll call him in from twisting wrenches to have a look at your friend’s situation

  21. Vic Said,

    February 13, 2009 @ 6:42 pm

    Tony, can you find out the correct model of your friends Kubota? L8650 is not a Kubota tractor model.

    I have some information regarding the reason and solution just need to make sure it’s relevant to the correct model.

    Report back.

    Service Dept Vic

  22. Jeff Said,

    February 15, 2009 @ 1:02 pm

    Hello i am having a problem with my transmission i would like to know where i can find a Schematic for the transmission. its an older tractor 1990 or 1991 L2050. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

  23. Vic Said,

    February 15, 2009 @ 7:06 pm

    Jeff, We have the new Kubota pdf file transfer Master Parts and Factory Assembly Manuals available for that L2050. They detail all assemblies, parts and components of your specific tractor.

    Email me at acreageoutfitters@hotmail.com

    Cost is $20USD. I can process a PayPal payment request and you’ll be looking at the exploded diagrams with correct Kubota Part Numbers tonite!

    Service Dept Vic

  24. Jeff Said,

    February 19, 2009 @ 3:06 pm

    yea that sounds great. I will get Back to You in a few days. but i dont have a paypal account is there any other way i can buy it

  25. Vic Said,

    February 19, 2009 @ 9:16 pm

    Jeff, we can still process the payment request, It doesn’t cost anything to sign up for a Pay Pal account, you can process payment to Pay Pal using your credit card!

    Service Dept Vic

  26. Paul Said,

    April 5, 2009 @ 9:19 pm

    I have a Late 70′s Kubota B6100E with some type of Issue when you use the clutch. Basically what happens is when you’re driving in any gear and push in the clutch you will hear and feel this terrible grinding noise and even after the tractor stops rolling forward it will still continue to make the noise. There is less grinding and vibrating at lower rpms and more when rpm is higher. When it is in gear and driving there are no problems, but once you push in that clutch it unleashes the beast. It litteraly sounds like the clutch assembly is riding on the bellhousing. Hopefully you guys can help!

  27. Paul Said,

    April 5, 2009 @ 9:23 pm

    Anyone that might know what it is that is causing my problem please educate me. Thanks

  28. Mr. K Said,

    April 5, 2009 @ 10:08 pm

    Hmmm interesting situation you have there Paul. If you don’t get any responses here be sure to post in our forums too! Check up at the top menu for a link to the forums. Lotsa good advice in there.

  29. Terry King Said,

    April 6, 2009 @ 12:47 pm

    where could i purchase a aftermarket clutch and pressure plate assembly for my Kubota M-5700, ser# 10999 tractor? Thanks, Terry King

  30. Vic Said,

    April 7, 2009 @ 9:05 pm

    The clutch release bearing is pooched! How do I know? Welll the one in my B6200 is making the same horrible noise! The repair will be an upcomming feature on how to split your Kubota and replace the clutch release bearing!

    Service Dept Vic

  31. Vic Said,

    April 7, 2009 @ 9:19 pm

    3 words. CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING!

    Service Dept Vic

  32. Vic Said,

    April 7, 2009 @ 9:23 pm

    Terry, have the Kubota Parts, no aftermarket clutch parts, sorry.

    Service Dept Vic

  33. Rob Said,

    April 16, 2009 @ 6:13 pm

    I recently purchased an L1500. I noticed the 2nd gear is totally stripped out, but since I got good deal, I bought it. After a month or so of use, the clutch will not disengage. I looked thru the side cover and it appears the clutch fork/release bearing is nowhere near the pressure plate and appears the outer springs are broke? it is a little difficult to see what is going on in there. i stumbled on this site and it has given me some ambition to try to repair the unit myself. It sounds like some of the hardest work is all the disassembly prior to splitting the tractor. It sounded like you needed to “gently” twist and coax the case apart? is there a procedure that could be sent? where is a good place to buy all the components? i agree that if you go in there, you might as well replace all and have the flywheel turned. is there also a procedure that can be sent on how to properly adjust the clutch? is the only adjustment the starting point of the stroke of the release bearing? or can you adjust the amount of travel of the bearing? or both? i did notice there a crack between the rod and the lever outside the case that goes into the fork. would that have developed because it was bottoming out (trying to overstroke) at some point? thanks for any help you can provide. last thing, i heard the L1500 has different gears than the US model. how much more trouble would it be to replace that 2nd gear? are those available somewhere? i’ve done this kind of work on vehicles before, but this is my first tractor. thanks. rob

  34. Vic Said,

    April 17, 2009 @ 9:31 pm

    Rob, You’re going to need a Workshop Service Manual for that L1500, we offer them in out Parts Department.
    Since this Kubota is new to you and from your questions it seems like you have some mechanical aptitude, then it’s time to jump into that clutch repair!

  35. charlie Said,

    April 27, 2009 @ 9:08 pm

    ihave a kuboto tractor B6100 series i have put in a new clutch and ajusted the clutchit worked fine for a while now when i stop to lower the front bucket and depress the clutch to dissengage it seem that the clutch is still engaged with suck a large noice coming from the cluch area if i dissengage teh gear it is all fine

  36. Vic Said,

    April 29, 2009 @ 6:53 am

    You need to readjust the clutch pedal free play, and grease that release bearing!

  37. Joe M. NJ Said,

    May 4, 2009 @ 11:57 am

    Vic,

    Great site. I have a L175 that I plan on splitting and replacing the clutch, reverse is gone and I was able to source both the main and reverse shafts, gear, clutch and rest of the tranny bearings and seals. Any pointers on both splitting and replacing the shafts and bearings? Good thing I removed and cleaned that metal tranny filter, boy was she plugged up! Also (sorry to make this long) I was thinking about adding a bucket to the front of this 2wd. Should I or just plan on upgrading to a wet clutch 4wd tractor and use this L175 for the “pasture” Thanks…

    Joe

  38. Vic Said,

    May 5, 2009 @ 7:03 am

    The L175 is a great all around compact, should do all you need it to unless you have lots of steep hills and need the extra rraction (snow pushing etc). as far as the split goes, talk to Dr Phil and Dusty-t! They are both elbow deep in their own “splits”! welcome to the site!

  39. jamie Said,

    May 10, 2009 @ 7:10 pm

    I have a L1500 [L175] I need an exploded view of the transmission if anyone has one please or to know what breaks in the trans to disable reverse

    thank you

  40. Vic Said,

    May 12, 2009 @ 6:48 am

    Jamie, A good place to start would be with a full Master parts and Factory Assembly Manual, and a Workshop Service Manual. sounds like you have a full on tractor “split” in your immediate future! I’ll send you a PM with more details on ordering these service tools!

  41. charlie Said,

    May 25, 2009 @ 2:49 pm

    vic ihave a kuboto tractor B6100 series i have greased the release bearing to stop the noise the tractor makes when i stop to lower the load i have in the bucket, and the noise goes away for a short period of time and then it appears again as if the clutch is still engaged .

  42. Vic Said,

    May 26, 2009 @ 5:46 pm

    Well, it might be time to replace that clutch release bearing all together.

  43. Jon Said,

    June 28, 2009 @ 3:30 am

    Hi,

    I have a L4202DT.

    Recently, the clutch pedal feels like it is “stretching a spring” be being pressed. Also, the gears are grinding a little when changing.

    Any ideas?

    Is there an inspection plate where I can look at release bearing and springs on the pressure plate?

    Thanks

    Jon

  44. Ryan Said,

    August 2, 2009 @ 5:43 pm

    Need help please! Just picked up a Kubota L2000 with 921 hrs. It runs like a CHAMP! Paint is only cosmetics, no big deal, the problem is the clutch. I was told it was a grey market one from Canada, something like that. I am in the US, where can I get the fixings? Thanks for any help!

  45. Vic Said,

    August 2, 2009 @ 8:25 pm

    I’ve got everything you’ll ever need for parts right here in Canada. Ship worldwide.

  46. Ryan Said,

    August 3, 2009 @ 6:22 pm

    What is the link for the clutch parts list. Is it a whole assembly? How much it is? Just let me know Thanks Vic!

  47. Vic Said,

    August 6, 2009 @ 6:46 am

    Ryan, You’ll need: A new pressure plate, clutch disc, pilot bearing, clutch release bearing and possibly a new release bearing fork. Budget on $4-500.

  48. Duncan Said,

    August 6, 2009 @ 11:54 am

    Vic,

    I’ve got an L4350 Kubota tractor that is on it’s third clutch, with only 1600 hrs. It’s 4WD, dry clutch, with standard transmission, no shuttle or hydrostatic feature. We have a loader and use it a lot for loading mulch into a spreader, and also do some discing and plowing in orchards. Nothing unusual for tractor work, and it is being driven properly. The “dealer” that we take it to sort of stonewalls us saying “we’ve worn out the clutch” (I know that) and that he can only put in a “new factory package” (clutch, pressure plate) and check the flywheel. We’ve said there must be more to it than that, i.e. bad linkage, adjustment, weak pressure plate or just not a good design to begin with). Have you heard of these troubles, or inferior clutches, and does someone make a better clutch than the original equipment? The dealer also says newer materials are not as good as the early ones. What’s your take and experience with this? — I’m about to move on to another machine.

    Thanks for your help,

    Duncan

  49. Vic Said,

    August 8, 2009 @ 9:10 pm

    Duncan, find a clutch rebuilder in your local trading area and have him build you a new disc for that Kubota out of Kevlar. It will absolutley be the last clutch you put in that tractor.

    Tell the operators of that Kubota to keep their size “12″ off the clutch pedal when loading and unloading! I’m going to have to side with the dealer on this issue. IMHO, burning through 3 clutches in 1600 hrs is an operations issue, not a machine or parts based problem.

  50. Tim Bronson Said,

    August 17, 2009 @ 12:24 pm

    I have a Kubota L1501. I live in Florida, the clutch was working ok grinding just a bit at times. I parked it for about 3 weeks and the clutch will not work, can’t get it into gear. I suspect that the clutch has rusted to the flywheel. Is there any way to free up the clutch with out replacing the components?
    Thanks,

    Tim

  51. Vic Said,

    August 17, 2009 @ 7:05 pm

    Yep, it’s called the bump and grind. Start tractor in a higher gear, drive fairly quickly straight ahead, then slam on the brakes as hard as you can to stall the tractor. Once or twice is all you’ll need to free the disc from the flywheel. Been there and done it!!

    Vic

  52. RICHARD Said,

    August 29, 2009 @ 5:25 pm

    I have a kubota L3650, I seem to have a bit of a problem with the PTO that I need help with. Every time I go to try putting in the PTO in it grinds a lot. I would think when you press down on the clutch and have it in Neutral it should go in easier but it doesn’t? I would like to Know what and why that should be doing that? Rich

  53. mike smith Said,

    September 2, 2009 @ 4:42 am

    I have a 2001 M6800 that has a dry clutch. I cannot find anywhere how to adjust the clutch. There is a bracket right behind the steps into the cab on drivers side that is a cable and has 2 jamb nuts that takes a 12 mm wrench to loosen. Behind this closer to the middle of the tractor or behind the fuel tank is another arm assembly that has an adjustable turnbuckle bu I do not knwo what this adjusts. My clutch pedal is right at the top and I need to know what and how to adjust. I appreciate your help in advance. Does my tractor have this grease fitting on the release bearing?

  54. Doug Said,

    September 2, 2009 @ 11:41 am

    Please give specs on clutch adjustment and instructions on greasing the release bearing on a Kubota B6100E.

  55. dave Said,

    October 26, 2009 @ 3:23 pm

    hello, i have a l2500 and as i cranked the tractor today i noticed oil coming from the cover located on the flywheel housing. why is this and is there a easy fix?

  56. Vic Said,

    October 27, 2009 @ 8:10 am

    Hi Dave, Redirect this question into the forums area and I’ll answer your question for the benefit of all visitors to the site!

  57. PAT MARLER Said,

    November 9, 2009 @ 3:06 pm

    I have a 2007 M5040 tractor and it grinds going into first gear. All other gears work. thank you

  58. Sandy Said,

    November 21, 2009 @ 11:47 am

    My L2002 (grey market) has a sick clutch-I have to shift it down to go up a hill or when there is a load on. Do I need a whole new clutch, or just the disc? And, more important, where can I get the parts I need?

  59. Service Dept Vic Said,

    November 22, 2009 @ 9:32 am

    Sandy you need the disc, the pressure plate, the release bearing, the pilot bearing and you’ll need to have the flywheel resurfaced as well. There is no short cut or “half” a job you can do with a diesel powered truck, tractor or earthmover! It’s all or nothing! I have all the parts you’ll need. Let me know.

  60. Jerome Pavao Said,

    November 25, 2009 @ 6:27 am

    I just instaled a new clutch pressure plate bearing and fork. I put it together and now I cannot get it to disengage. I am baffled because everything is new. It is a B7100 tractor Kabota. I need to know what I am doing wrong or how to disengage this problem,

  61. Vic Byskal Said,

    November 25, 2009 @ 8:11 am

    You’ve got the disc in backwards of the release bearing fork installed incorrectly. Split it apart and start over, sorry.

  62. Jerome Pavao Said,

    December 13, 2009 @ 3:41 pm

    Is there a grease for the pilot bushing for the B7100 clutch. and does the flex coupler that is on the clutch shaft, ball bearings have to be greased or do they run dry

  63. jd mcgraw Said,

    January 1, 2010 @ 9:24 am

    I plan to replace clutch in my 2350 can i get an exploded diagram showing componets that will need to be dissasembled for this job
    thanks jd

  64. Joe Gabele Said,

    January 5, 2010 @ 10:32 am

    I bought a 1993 (I think) L2650 with the Ever Clutch wet multi plate, and the shaft for the input basket broke. Anyone know of part sources (Used) that actually have a wet clutch unit? Any L2950, 3450, or 3650 with wet clutch will suffice.

    I would also consider buying the center of any dry clutch units that will cross / fit this tractor. Thanks!

  65. michael brennan Said,

    January 11, 2010 @ 5:36 pm

    I have an early 2000 M5400 tractor,it has a bad flywheel. I need to fix this.Ihave never split a tractor and have no manual to go by. If you can help I could use all I can get.
    Thanks
    Michael

  66. george Said,

    February 19, 2010 @ 7:31 pm

    I have a B6100D 4×4. I don’t like the rear S/blower with no live PTO. There is a Spline on the front of the crankshaft. Can you still get the coulping shaft (female spline) to make up a live pto on the front of the tractor. I think they had an electric clutch assy that ran the front pto.
    George

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