Discovered it’s a Gray Market Kubota? Relax.

So, you’ve just discovered that you now own a gray market Kubota tractor. You may or not have known that before you plunked down good dollars for what you felt was a reasonably priced orange tractor! You thought it looked a little weird what with all the decals and instructions printed in Japanese. You did recognize that “Kubota” nameplate though, so it’s gotta be okay, right? Well the answer is not so black and white, pardon the pun – it’s a little gray!

A clean gray market L2000 from Australia

A clean gray market L2000 from Australia

It’s a Kubota
First and foremost, rest assured that your recently acquired gray market tractor now proudly parked in your shed is 100% Kubota through and through. It was designed, engineered, assembled and shipped from exactly the same manufacturing facility as every single other Kubota tractor in the world! Kubota builds and ships their tractors to Argentina, New Zealand, Turkey, Spain, Portugal, India, Greece, Canada, Australia, the UAE, Great Britain, the USA among others. Kubota does not build a different tractor with different parts for every country they ship to! That’s worth repeating. Kubota does not build a different tractor with different parts for every country they ship to.

Part Song and Part Dance
So why is it then that your local brick and mortar Kubota dealer would like you to think that you own a “black market” tractor? As we know, it is a Kubota after all! It seems like your dealer can’t or won’t help you and may enjoy telling you that parts are “not available” because it’s a “gray market” model. You’ll never get an oil filter, water pump and good luck on a tire tube. “Buddy”, he says, “you’re screwed”!

The reason your dealer tells you this has everything to do with his franchise agreement with Kubota/KTC and little to do with his  claim that “you can’t get parts”. What he really should say is “I can’t sell you the part”, that is the truth. Your local dealer probably has a stock room full of parts that fit your gray market Kubota, the problem is he is bound by his franchise agreement to only provide parts and service for North American Kubota models.  

So What can I do if I need a Part?
Providing parts and service for gray market Kubota tractors is a cottage industry in itself. Look around your community and I’ll bet you’ll find a local resource there that can assist you in getting any thing you’d ever need for your gray Kubota. Our page sponsor Yenibiz does a brisk business selling parts to gray market Kubota owners the world over! In Canada, Acreage Outfitters has been providing parts and offering service assistance for years to owners of gray market Kubota models. Diesel Traders Inc in Australia is home to some of the most talented gray market service and parts people in this industry. Selling gray market Kubota parts and offering service to gray market Kubota tractor owners is a business all in itself. Support these businesses. They exist and enjoy success because they are filling this need and demand. There are many more service providers out there, start looking for them and support the hell out of them!

Your dealer is not the only source you have for parts either! Don’t forget your ag and auto parts stores for consumables and hard parts. The engine model number is all they need to whip up a rad cap, lower and upper hoses, a water pump, air/fuel filters, belts, gaskets, etc.

Watch the box stores for filter deals as well. Walmart has a hell of a regular price on Fram and Purolator oil filters. Who says you can’t get parts for your gray market Kubota?

Summary
The best way to put yourself in a position to maintain your gray market Kubota:

  1. determine what model you have, and what its closest North American equivalent is
  2. BUY a service manual, a parts manual and an operators manual, either for the original model you have or the equivalent
  3. find local resources in your area, they are in business because your local  Kubota Dealer cannot help you 
  4. consider other sources for your parts like auto supply and big box stores
  5. learn from and educate others, participate in our forums

In the next little while we’ll be writing some articles detailing our tips and tricks to determining what your equivalent model is as well as a common “cross-overs”.

Service Department Vic

Related Articles
Tips for the New Owner of a Used Kubota
ZEN-NOH and Kubota Part 1: A Partnership
Kubota Servicing 101: Part 1 – Air Filter
Gray Market Kubota Oil Filter Part Numbers
Forum: Gray Market & Zennoh

167 Comments »

  1. winecountry Said,

    September 18, 2008 @ 10:06 pm

    an intersting post on Kubota’s gray tractors, thank you. I myself have a B7001, not very powerful but good enough to till up small beds or haul supplies around with. my advice to add is to make friends with your dealer and try not to mention that you have this kinda of tractor too much. could test his patience.

  2. Personalitee Said,

    October 20, 2008 @ 10:06 pm

    Thanks Vic. I have a B7000 with a corroded water pump housing and no-one in Australia wants to talk to me!! Where would I go about finding out the equivalent part number in OZ?

    Cheers
    Geoff

  3. Vic Said,

    October 21, 2008 @ 8:46 am

    Thanks for responding to us Geoff! The B5/6/7 series tractors were the early compacts, the B6000 making it to the North American domestic market, while the 5 and 7000 series remained JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) only. Your 2cyl engine, model Z650, should share the housing found on the B6000. I’d start looking there!

    Service Dept Vic

  4. Paul Said,

    October 29, 2008 @ 12:28 am

    Vic, interesting information . I’m looking at a b7000, the current owner says he orders parts for a b7200 when necessary, yet your last post said the water pump should cross reference to a b6000. Is the b7000 tractor compulation of parts from a number of tractors? thanks paul

  5. Vic Said,

    October 30, 2008 @ 9:37 pm

    Paul, The B7000 is an awesome little tractor that shares a good majority of it’s parts with it’s JDM brothers, the B5000 and B6000, the later being sold into North America. All “gray market” Kubota, Zen-Noh, and Sunshine tractors are after all, 100% Kubota product. For anyone that has “twisted wreches” on them for any amount of time it doesn’t take long to realize that component wise a good majority of parts are shared over a wide variety of North american models, so in a way, “yes” is the answer to your question. The difficult part is for the layman to know exactly which parts will interchange, from what models, and from what years. There is no substitute for experience, but a good technical resource like this website can go a long way in finding a part or an answer. Service Dept Vic

  6. gary Said,

    November 1, 2008 @ 1:37 am

    Vic. i am looking to purchase a b7001. have just started looking on the net to find info on the unit and am confronted with the ” grey market ” talk. can you please tell me your thoughts on the model and it’s performance / reliability and what compatible model i need to quote if i need parts or to purchase a manual. it also comes with a FEL , slasher , ripper , and hoe, out of cusiosity, what price would you expect to pay for this ? it appears to be in very good condition. i assume parts dealerships are plenty in and around Melbourne ? cheers gary.

  7. nicky Said,

    November 2, 2008 @ 4:10 pm

    hi.
    i have just bought a hymari rotovator for a b 7001 kubota. it fitted on ok and worked fine but the pto drive has now ceased to turn. the rotavator did hit a stone and bounced a bit but i didnt think it would break the pto that easily (literally 5 mins). it was only running on very low revs at lowest pto rev setting. looking up manuals i have found 7100s 7100hsd 7100hst 7001dt so i have no idea what i have. i have some experience of engines but not in tractors so is replacing the pto a professional job….

  8. Vic Said,

    November 3, 2008 @ 12:44 pm

    Nicky, the PTO stub shaft on your B7001 can be removed from the outside of the transmission housing by removing the bolts that hold that housing on and withdrawing the shaft. It will come out with a couple of bearings and a gear set, take a look at the PTO stub and you’ll see those 4 bolts. If the PTO stub is “wobbly” it’s probably sheared and the shaft will require replacing. Do you hear any grinding when the PTO lever is engaged? Is the PTO lever engaged? Either way rest assured that the PTO is serviceable from the outside of the tractor for a reason. It’s a common area for breakage and not just on Kubota product. Your B7001 is a North American B7100. The B7100 PTO shaft is dimensionally a little longer than the B7001 but will mount right up. The shaft from a B6001, B6100 will also interchange. Of greater importance is why this part failed. Is your B7001 a “2 point hitch” tractor as was common with this gray model? Was the new rotovator a 2 point or 3 point hitch version. Assuming it was a 3 point hitch version and your B7001 was upfitted with an aftermarket 3 point hitch set up, (very common, I’ve done more than one B7001 conversion) then I’d be taking a look at the top link assembly and PTO driveshaft of the rotovator to see if either of them “bind” on the PTO stub shaft when the 3 point hitch is moved “up”. If the entire implement does not move upward without interferance or binding then something is going to give, and that will be the PTO shaft. Concerning engine revs and PTO speeds when tilling, you’ll always want to be at or near full revs on the engine, so set your throttle high, then pick the lowest PTO speed, position #1 on the B7001, By adjusting your forward speed gear selection and your tractors transmission range (hi or low) you’ll be able to set your ground speed to match the work at hand. Report back and let me know a little more about this service problem! Service Dept Vic

  9. Vic Said,

    November 3, 2008 @ 7:14 pm

    Hi Gary, The B7001 is the Japanese version of the B7100. Engines, sheetmetal, periferals, are all identical. Your B7001 has an extra PTO speed and a smaller set of tires than the versions (B7100) sent to North America, and was probably built with a 2 point hitch configuration. This tractor was mated to a rototiller right at the Kubota plant as the purpose of this tractor was tilling. Performance and reliability wise the B7001 is excellent. They don’t leak or drip, start well and are tough, durable units. You’ll find them nicely compact, loaded with features like diff lock, hi and low speed ranges, spin on filters, glow plug preheaters, pressurized oil and cooling systems, even a horn and signal lights. Most of the B5/6/7000 and B5/6/7001 series Kubota tractors were not built with an hour meter, although the provision is there on the dash to have one; remove the rubber hour meter delete plug and install a new 12V unit. The wiring is found under the LH edge of the dash . Regardless of not knowing the hours of actual engine run time, a general look over and listen should be enough to convince you of the worthiness of the tractor. Do not be afraid to purchase this or any other gray market Kubota tractor. Regarding price, well that largely depends on the overall condition of the unit, its attachments and wether or not any repair or reconditioning is required. In terms of “price” I would say that based on the equipment you describe, that if your tractor were sitting on our lot here in Western Canada it would be a “hot deal” at $6500-7000. Service Dept Vic

  10. gary Said,

    November 4, 2008 @ 1:09 am

    Vic – thanks very much for the quick / honest response , i appreciate it.

    cheers.

  11. nicky Said,

    November 4, 2008 @ 5:21 pm

    hi vic.
    it is a three point linkage on the tractor now. when you run the pto you can hear it turning inside but its not moving outside but it is not a grinding noise. it will not turn in pos 1 2 or 3. if you slightly twist the pto it will catch and three quarter turn and then stop again , twist and its off again. rotavator is a hymari , 3 point linkage and seemed to be no prob with it. i disengaged pto all the time just as it cleared the ground so it was never running as it was up. will take off panel thur and let you know what happens. thanks. nicky.

  12. Vic Said,

    November 5, 2008 @ 12:26 pm

    Nicky, You’re going to find the drive gear of the PTO output shaft with a big chunk missing! It’ll require replacing, let us know what you find, we’ll assist with part numbers! Service Department Vic

  13. nicky Said,

    November 6, 2008 @ 3:33 pm

    got pto cover off and pto came clean out. drive gear is perfect not a mark on it. the gear on the end of the engine driveshaft looked ok at first which freaked me out but when i twisted it around i found that the gear was made up of a central hub and a seperate outer rim with the gear teeth on it. the two were held by two grub screws which had sheared and allowed one to spin inside the other presumably to avoid damage to the main shaft. i took it all apart and returned it to where i bought tractor . guy looked at it , whistled and disappeared off into workshop from which came sawing sounds, welding and grinding and he reappeared and stated that it def wont happen again. two parts of drive gear are now nuclear blast proof having being lock tighted and mig welded(bit of over kill i think). but i am worried that if whatever caused it to happen first time happens again and the gear cant shear itself what else is going to give. he reckoned it was fine that he had run rotavators for years and never busted a tractor just the occasional rota part and if a tractor was under pressure it was the revs that would die first. im not so sure. do you think i should replace the gear and put in grubs or could it happen again every time i hit a stone or leave it in its new solid state. advice really appreciated. nicky

  14. Vic Said,

    November 6, 2008 @ 9:18 pm

    Nicky, well that’s a revalation for this Kubota mechanic! It’s unusual that the PTO shaft on your Kubota was found to be “shear” pin protected on the inside of the transmission. The rotovator shafts are shear pin protected! The gray market B series 2 point hitch rototillers are shear pin protected, and Kubota’s North American tillers are slip clutch protected, so I can honestly say I have not seen that kind of setup. It’s going to make me dig into my parts/service manuals and see if there was a serial number change up somewhere along the line. Now that the shaft is welded together and solid, you may want to add an external slip clutch to the PTO driveshaft as a measure of safety. We have a saying here in the shop: what can go wrong, ususally does, in the hardest spot for a tech to get to! Glad you jumped into that repair and shared your findings with us! Service Department Vic

  15. nicky Said,

    November 10, 2008 @ 5:31 pm

    hey again.
    might have just solved mystery. have spent hours looking at b7001s on web and have not found any that look like mine. and its no wonder, have just found it on a site for b7000. some tool put the wrong number on the tractor. the gear sheared again by the way and badly this time. no chance of fixin it. have worked out that the top hitch is too short. (am really showing up as an amateur now). any idea what part number it might be now that its definately a b7000. im really taking the long way round on this one. cheers vic.

  16. osut362 Said,

    November 11, 2008 @ 12:43 pm

    I just purchanse a ZENO-noh ZL 1500 FD “as-is” from my neighbor, $450.00. Front axle housing pivot is broken, can it be welded? The part that broke off is missing. Thanks for your time, Al

  17. Vic Said,

    November 12, 2008 @ 7:15 pm

    Nicky, now that you’ve discovered your tractor is a B7000 it would explain why the PTO shaft was internally shear pin protected, unlike the B7100 and B7001 I’ve serviced. Looking back a few posts in this thread, I had a suspicion that the top link may have been the problem. Can you upload a few digital pics on parts required? You might have to use the Tractors for Sale section of the site, but it will give me a better idea of what you’re looking for. One thing I know about Kubota is every nut bolt and screw is a different part number, nothing is sold as an assembly! Service Department Vic

  18. Vic Said,

    November 12, 2008 @ 7:23 pm

    Al, concerning that front axle pivot, yes it can be welded and machined. You’re going to have to remove the front axle assembly from the tractor and “shop it around” to a few welding shops. My experience has been very positive when dealing with more “rural” shops than urban ones. Seems they’re a little better at “inventing” and making do, and that’s what’s needed here. The L1500DT is esentially an L175 North American tractor, exccept Kubota never made an L175 4×4, so while internal parts are shared with a few models, the external case housing is unique. Any chance of locating that broken off tab? It would probably help alot in reconstructing that pivot. $450 bucks is a gift for that tractor. Spend the money fixing that axle pivot. Even if it cost $500 to dream up a workable modification, it would be worth it!

    Service Department Vic

  19. Damon Said,

    November 17, 2008 @ 1:00 pm

    I have a B7000 kubota that is blowing oil into the radiatior. I started by having the head looked at..it was a mess and after getting that done at my local kubota dealer I reinstalled it with new gaskets figuring it should solve the problem but it didnt. Still blowing oil into the radiator. Now Im thinking it might be the unthinkable like a cracked block or oil channel..I dont see water in the engine oil I drained out but oil in the radiator. Any ideas?

  20. Mr. K Said,

    November 17, 2008 @ 3:35 pm

    Hello there Damon, thank you for taking the time to submit your inquiry. Vic can probably lend more insight into this question that I can, but we do have a video that does touch on the problem you are describing. You can have a look on YouTube by following this link:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W83cukcNws0

    Essentially the problem that we encountered and corrected on this client’s Kubota was frost plugs that were pushed out of the block. There are a few of these plugs in the block (top of cylinder head, behind gear case, etc) and their purpose is to relieve pressure in the block in the event the coolant freezes – ie. push the plugs out rather than crack the block.

    Vic can lend more insight and provide a followup of other areas to check though. Thanks for your comment, much appreciated!

    Mr. K

  21. Vic Said,

    November 18, 2008 @ 9:47 pm

    Damon, Mr K. is correct. You have a ‘popped” frost plug that is allowing oil to mix with the radiator. Because the oil pressure is higher than the cooling system pressure, you won’t get water in the oil. Since the head has been removed I will assume the head shop made sure all the frost plugs in it were solid and intact. There are a few of them.

    Next place to go looking is behind the front gear case. It’s a big job, as you’ll see by looking at our recent video on this exact repair. It’s very doubtful that a cylinder block liner has cracked. The frost plug is around $3 bucks. Getting there is a different story. Let us know what you find.

    Service Department Vic

  22. Damon Said,

    November 19, 2008 @ 12:45 pm

    Thanks for the advice MrK and Vic. I recall seeing new freeze plugs in the head.
    It did the exact same thing prior to the head rebuild so I will check out these other freeze plugs. One or two I see on the side of the block look mighty rusty. Are these easily available? Kubota item?

    PS Mr K are you sure of that youtube link? doesnt seem to be working…

    Damon

  23. Mr. K Said,

    November 19, 2008 @ 2:27 pm

    Hello again Damon,

    Just checked the link and it works for me, but something else might be broken. You can find all of the videos we’ve produced, including a discussion on your situation, on our YouTube channel here:

    http://www.youtube.com/user/OrangeTractorTalks

    Frost plugs are readilty available from Kubota and they’re pretty cheap. Vic might know the exact part number for you and how many you might need.

  24. Vic Said,

    November 20, 2008 @ 10:23 am

    Damon, The problem you’re experiencing with this tractor is due to a frost plug that has “popped” out into an area that is bathed in oil, and that’s happens in only two places. The cylinder head, where the valve lifters are bathed in oil, and the front of the block, where the injector pump gear, oil pump slinger, valve timing gear and crank gear reside. A frost plug pop in either of these two areas results in massive oil ingestion into the radiator.

    That means that if the frost plugs were replaced in the cylinder head by the machine shop, then its time to get the front of the engine stripped back to the bare block.

    A service manual really helps here becasue there are a couple of govenor and start springs inside the injector pump housing that need to be disconnected and then reconnected. If you “strech” them, the tractor won’t start worth a damn and the govenor won’t kick in when the tractor is put under load. This is a “do-it-youself” job, there is nothing complex to it. It’s just a lot of “twisting” to get at that three dollar frost plug.

    Mr K and myself have been working on a post that covers this service repair off in a little more detail than our YouTube video. Not sure if we’ll have it up before you get into the repair but you’re welcome to post your status here and we’ll help any way we can. Service Dept Vic

  25. Denis Said,

    November 21, 2008 @ 9:03 pm

    Vic,

    Thanks a lot for all the good info and for being so open to share it with us. You mentionned in a previous post that you were from Western Canada. I was woundering if you’d know a good place in Canada where we can get parts and maintenance manuals for the B7000. Always a bit worried when ordering from the net specially that I’ve read that the parts manual for the B7000 is in Japanese only.

    Denis

  26. Damon Said,

    November 22, 2008 @ 9:52 am

    Hi Vic,

    Im trying to gather parts for the project I know I will need.
    Have a parts manual for the B7000. Timing cover gasket 15241-043-2 has been hard to find. Crankshaft seal 09550-00001 I will need also and I havent found. Any ideas where to get this stuff? Ive tried Yenibiz and Tractor imports of australia as well as my local kubota dealer.

    Thanks to you guys for you help!

    Damon

  27. Vic Said,

    November 23, 2008 @ 7:54 pm

    Denis, We’re affiliated with and recommend Acreage Outfitters Ltd, a Western Canada based Ag Dealer, specializing in JDM (gray market) Kubota parts and manuals. Email acreageoutfitters@hotmail.com for parts and manual quotes.

    Yes, the B7000 parts manual does contain Japanese text, the part numbers however are english. Kubota has undergone a few part number change-ups since the late seventies when that B7000 manual was printed. Acreage Outfitters should be able to decipher and advise if parts are current production. Service Dept Vic

  28. Vic Said,

    November 24, 2008 @ 6:41 pm

    Damon, Your tractor has been the topic of discussion in the Service Shop all day today, with a number of the techs pitching in their two cents worth on the probable cause of the oil injestion on that B7000.

    Not everyone seems to be “on board” with my frost plug popped- behind-the-gear-case-diagnosis. This got me to thinking, and when that happens I dig up old invoices and work orders.

    Looking closer at the engine block schematics on my micofische viewer (yes, it’s old school but that’s what Kubota supplied years ago!) I don’t see a frost plug behind the gear case, that is normally there on the 3 cylinder models!!!!!

    This of course started the whole debate today over what the most likley problem is with this tractor.

    Looking over old work orders, the tractors and engines we’ve worked on with popped frost plugs were early L 1500, L2000, L245, L1802, D1302 engine, L175, L2002 and one L185DT.

    I was reminded by one of our lead shop technicians to “go back” to school and remember the value of a proper diagnosis, rather than assuming to have the answer based on previous experience.

    Ouch. Seems prudent though. So, it’s back to school on this diagnosis with these questions posed from our service shop technicians:

    1) how fast does the oil fill the radiator?
    2) have you conducted a pressure test on the radiator to see if the system will hold pressure ?
    3) was the tractor and engine block subjected to a freezing? temperature
    4)when the head was serviced, was it checked for cracks, (magnafluxed), was the deck checked for warpage, and was the proper cylinder head re-torquing sequence followed?
    5)what was the extent of the work done on the cylinder head?

    Looks like an answer to some of these questions before the engine is torn down would be a good idea. I agree.

    Looking forward to your reply back. The office pool here is currently sitting at $31, Mr. K is on the fence.

    Service Dept Vic

  29. Shawna Said,

    November 25, 2008 @ 4:33 pm

    We where told yesterday after scouring the net for a Steering Shaft for our B7200 that we own one of those dreaded “Grey Markets”. After panicing I found your post so thanks for putting my mind at ease, atleast for now. Could you point me in the right direction for the correct part numbers (for the Steering Shaft), or what North American Model numbers I should be searching under? Thanks!

  30. Vic Said,

    November 25, 2008 @ 7:43 pm

    Shawna, Your Kubota B7200 is not a grey market model, parts should be available from your local dealer, or through our parts associate, Acreage Outfitters Ltd, email them at:
    acreageoutfitters@hotmail.com

    Starting with the L175 and including B6200, B7200, B8200 and B9200, Kubota decided to make that steering shaft available with the grooved ball nut, so they’ll come as an assembly.

    You’ll need the top and bottom bearings if yours are deteriorated or broken. It’s not a bad idea to take a look at the column seal under the steering wheel as it’s probably worn and has allowed water and debris to enter the colum, settling in the steering box.

    This seal is a big part of steering box, shaft and sector failure in both Kubota L and B series tractors, including all JDM models.

    A quick check on the part shows it to be around $275USD

    Should a new replacement part be out of the question, then I’d say you’re looking for a tractor wrecker!

    Service Dept Vic

  31. ozzie Said,

    November 29, 2008 @ 8:01 am

    Hi from Australia, I tried to register but got a odd set of letters back in an email which didn,t seem to let me back onto the site as a member. Anyways, I came across your website as i was searching for info on old kubota tractors. I work for a company that remanufactures old kubotas and resells them, what you yanks call the grey market. If you,re interested the website is( http://www.sotatractors.com.au) Orangetractortalks maintenance videos are excellent and it,s something our customers can really use, if that,s okay ? You are certainly correct about Kubota dealers don,t want anything to do with the used market. I don,t know if we can help each other with information or tips on these older models but i,ll be coming back to the Orangetractortalks site regularly.

    Thanks
    nigel cheadle

    nigel266@bigpond.com.au

  32. nicky Said,

    December 2, 2008 @ 11:46 am

    hey vic.
    sent you a photo of shaft pto etc ,its in the classifieds. the gear cog is not in the picture as it is off being welded and lathed again. i pointed out where it went in pic but if this is no good to you i can send another with the gear cog in it or if it suits i can just send a pic of the cog itself. thanks. nicky.

    Edit by Mr. K:
    Hey there, I’ve moved your gear cog image from the classifieds into our new gallery section. You can find that image by going here:

    http://www.orangetractortalks.com/kubotagallery/?image=4

  33. Vic Said,

    December 3, 2008 @ 8:19 pm

    Hi Nicky,

    That spur gear will have either 15 teeth or 16, depending on the serial numbr of your tractor. The part # is 66611-14531 for 15 teeth, and part # 66611-14532 for 16 teeth on the gear (outside)

    The bad news is this part is what Kubota terms “n.l.a.”, or parts department lingo, “no longer available”.

    It’s an n.l.a part because it was not shared on any models after the B7000. Now you may find that the B7100 gear may work, part # 66706-14530, it has 17 teeth and I’d almost bet it would fit that your B7000 PTO shaft. Having 17 teeth it would make the PTO turn at a slightly different speed, which can be compensated for by engine rpm.

    Service Dept Vic

  34. nicky Said,

    December 8, 2008 @ 4:30 pm

    hey vic.
    if they dont make them anymore theres not a lot we can do about that. without putting you out would you be able to get your hands on that particular part and i could send you the cash for it or will i try accreage ? help has been brilliant, thanks lots. nicky.

  35. Dan H Said,

    December 9, 2008 @ 8:03 am

    I just bought a used L1801 gray market. Does anyone know what model tractor (not gray market) this one is compatable with? Or any websites that might be usefull to me? Also looking for a used tiller. Thanks in advance to any help.

  36. Vic Said,

    December 9, 2008 @ 7:38 pm

    Nicky,

    The gear from the B7100 part # 66706-14530 is still a good Kubota part number, should be able to get it from your local Kubota parts dealer. Order it by part number, just remember it’s a “best estimate” that it will work as a replacement. You may end up buying a gear that you can’t return.

    Service Dept Vic

  37. Vic Said,

    December 9, 2008 @ 7:43 pm

    Hi Dan,

    Thanks for checking out Orangetractortalks.com! The L1801 is an awesome Kubota! It shares parts with the L175, the L185, L1500 and L1501. It’s the closest cousin to an L175 North American model. We have a used tiller here at the shop, would have to be a local pick up. They weigh a ton!

    Service Dept Vic

  38. Dan H Said,

    December 10, 2008 @ 8:45 am

    Hello Vic,
    What an awsome site. Thank you for the good info. Where is your shop located? What are you askin for the tiller, and size? Thanks again for your time.
    Dan

  39. Vic Said,

    December 10, 2008 @ 9:08 pm

    Dan, our shop is located east of Calgary Alberta. The tiller is a 60″ Kubota RS1351 with 32 tines and we’re asking $1000 for it. We also sell new tillers starting at $2600.

    Service Dept Vic

  40. nicky Said,

    December 12, 2008 @ 4:25 pm

    thanks vic.
    will give it a try. if it doesnt happen to fit ,is that it for the pto on the tractor. nicky.

  41. Vic Said,

    December 12, 2008 @ 4:35 pm

    Nicky, That’s why we have millwrights and machinists! If you get stuck, locate a good machine shop, take in the busted gear and it’s companion shaft and let them do their thing! They’ll make you a gear. It will cost a little more, but you’ll come away with a complete tractor.

    Service Dept Vic

  42. wade Said,

    December 21, 2008 @ 2:45 pm

    just bought a b6100e thats what the man told me. later found out its a b6001e .i was right in the middel of repainting the tractor when i found out about gray market .i was going to fix it up and sell it . its around a 80s model can you sell it are do you have keep for ever . cant find this answer any where thanks

  43. Vic Said,

    December 22, 2008 @ 12:32 pm

    Hi Wade,

    The B6100e and B6001e are essentially the same tractor. They came down the same assembly line and have only minor differences as they were intended for final use in two different countries.

    Your B6001e, 2WD was made to a “Japanese Domestic Market” specification, meaning this model was built and sold for use in Japan rather than the B6100e that would have been exported to another country.

    As such, the B6001e operation decals are written in Japanese rather than English as would be the case had this tractor been shipped to North America once the tractor reached the end of the assembly line.

    Some other minor differences are: Tires, (size and tread depth), number of available PTO speeds, (the B6001 can access 4, the B6100, 3), travel direction of the throttle control lever, (forward on the B6001e, rear ward on the B6100).

    These tractors were manufactured in the late seventies-early eighties and are considered to be some of the best compact Kubota tractors around.

    There is far too much false “stigma” attached to owning a “JDM” or gray market Kubota. Your B6001e is a fine tractor!

    Check out our articles on painting your Kubota!!

    Service Dept Vic

  44. Nick Urban Said,

    December 28, 2008 @ 3:23 pm

    I have a L1501 and I was wondering if I can get a front loader for it?
    Thank You,
    Nick

  45. Vic Said,

    December 30, 2008 @ 5:48 pm

    Hi Nick,

    Yep, I’ve done a few loaders on the L1501. Buhler manufacturing makes the Allied #95 loader. They price from $3500-4000 CDN depending on bucket size, 4 or 5′. They ship with an $800 joystick control, no cheap crap here, hence the hefty price. All include correctly engineered loader integration framework, critical to ensuring the loader functions without possible damage to the tractor. Let me know if you need one, we’re located in Western Canada or you can check Buhlers website http://www.buhler.com for a dealer near you.

    Service Dept Vic

  46. Steve Said,

    January 2, 2009 @ 3:08 pm

    Vic
    I just purchased a B5100 that is a B5001. I now have a better education in the “gray market”. I looking for the parts manual for my B5001. Can you point me in the right direction. Tractor runs great just neds a little paint to cover the fading orange and a new seat cover. No plans to sell it.
    Thanks
    Steve

  47. Thomas Said,

    January 9, 2009 @ 9:22 pm

    Just today I purchased a B7001 Kubota. I have been reading and am still trying to get the jist of it but my questions are:
    1. What model is the tractor if the stamped # in the center section says its a B7001-18504 but the stickers say B7100?
    2. Will all or some B7100 parts fit?
    3. I see from reading this site you can get a parts catalog but it is in Japanese but the numbers are in english. How do I go about buying a copy?
    4. Where do I find the motor number?
    The only stampings I can find are: 762cc (displacment) and K3B61111 7. (not sure)
    5. How do you know what year it is?
    6. Is the 18504 at the end of the serial # tell you anything?
    Any help at all would be great
    Thanks
    TOM

  48. Vic Said,

    January 11, 2009 @ 12:32 am

    Hi Tom, Your Kubota was built mid 1977 and is a B7001.

    Materially it is very close to a B7100, a good majority of parts are the same.

    Parts manuals for both the B7100 and B7001 are required to ensure you get exactly the right part. Cross referencing between the two will produce the right part. We have any manual you may need, just email our parts dept : acreageoutfitters@hotmail.com for pricing and shipping.

    The serial number for the engine is stamped onto the injector pump housing right where the 3 injector lines leave the pump. There should be a small area that is not painted. The engine model number will be stamped first, followed by the tractor serial number. The frame serial #18504 will match the engine serial number providing the engine has not been replaced.

    The B7001 was built with the D750 Engine. So your serial # on the engine should read D750-18504.

    Service Dept Vic

  49. adam Said,

    January 11, 2009 @ 3:44 pm

    Vic
    I’m looking for a ROPS for my B5001. It would be nice if Kubota would let gray tractor owners in on there ROPS program. Any ideas on a good supplier?
    Steve

  50. Thomas Said,

    January 11, 2009 @ 9:00 pm

    Vic,
    Thanks for the lead on the manuals. I e-mailed the parts dept for pricing and availibity. But before purchase, I was wanting to make sure I was getting the right manuals.
    The original injection pump was replaced with one from a parts motor. I have the original pump though and the only stamping is on the flat top where the lines pipe into and it reads T14. On the down slope however, between the pipe outlets and the flat bolting surface is an oval plate and it reads D535799.
    Do these numbers make sense to you or am I looking in the wrong place?

  51. Thomas Said,

    January 11, 2009 @ 9:23 pm

    Vic,

    One last thing. My wife kinda feels that I may have not gotten my monies worth on my latest purchase.
    I paid $600 for the tractor, combo york rake and rear angle blade, new OEM front rim and tube to replace the failing one, 3 gallons of diesel in a can and a parts motor 90% complete. The tractor starts and runs fine, moves through tall gears, the PTO works in all 3 speeds, 4WD works and the 3-point lifts up and down.
    Down side to the tractor is a worn out seat, a little rust, faded paint, left wheel seal needs replaced and the lights dont work.
    Let me know what you think.

  52. Vic Said,

    January 12, 2009 @ 7:38 pm

    Hi Adam,

    Mr. K and me are real big Original Equipment guys! I guess if you twist wrenches for any amount of time you appreciate a part that fits right out of the box!

    So we all know that if your Kubota was a 1983 “B5100″ with serial number 50922 which is materially identical to the “B5001″, then it would qualify immediatley for the discounted ROPS and Seatbelt Program!

    The ROPS and Seatbelt Program is an on going voluntary Safety Initiative Kubota USA has been involved in for a number of years.

    New on Kubotas USA website for 2009 is an online tractor qualification inquiry. If your tractor model and serial number are recognized, then you are eligible to receive the ROPS and Seatbelt at a greatly reduced price, $148 USD.

    The inquiry will also produce results of local dealers that can order the ROPS and Seatbelt based on your ZIP code.

    Furthermore, the program is established so that you can install the ROPS and seatbelt yourself, so you don’t have to take your tractor to the local dealer to have the job done. Nice!

    Going the aftermarket route, make sure you find a ROPS that is certified, not just something Billy-Bob the handy welder guy fabbed up!

    These things are their to save your life so don’t risk a shop built ROPS unless you test it first.

    To test it, park your tractor sideways at the top of a very long, steep hill. Get off and with the help of a few friends, tip the tractor over causing it to roll several times down the hill, smashing and bashing the tractor to bits all the way to the bottom.

    Once the tractor comes to rest and stops moving, carefully inspect the home made ROPS. If the main bar is not bent, is still intact and shows no signs of damage, AND you think that it may have saved your life if you were seatbelted into the tractor as it rolled down the hill,then go ahead and use the ROPS!

    (Okay-the legal department just had a fit over that comment so better not try a homemade ROPS in the first place!)

    We’ve installed the Hercules Aftermarket ROPS in the past, they are certified and fit real nice. US Dealer is “Just Tractor Parts” at http://justtractorparts.com/

    Service Dept Vic

  53. Vic Said,

    January 12, 2009 @ 8:23 pm

    Thomas,

    I recall a time shortly after I got married when my wife showed up at home after a shopping trip with a new Lagostina sauce pan. No big deal I thought, until I saw the price on the box! I totally flipped! How the hell could that dinky little pan be worth $140 bucks? Now I’m mad.

    I was storming around the house like an idiot, ranting and raving like most guys would do in that situation, when one of her friends showed up at the door wanting to see the new Pot and Pan set my wife went out to buy at the “Once in a Blue Moon 50% Off Sale”.

    Suddenly I was torn. I was delighted that she truly recognized good economic value. Here she was waiting for a 50% off sale before buying that pan.

    I was dumbfounded because I obviously knew nothing about the cost of a good sauce pan.

    I was pissed off, because not only had she bought the 6″sauce pan, she also brought home seven or eight of his Lagostina Professional Series buddies.

    Hiding under the stove and all ready nestled away in the pots and pans drawer were, The Saute Pan, the Covered Dutch Oven, a couple of different sizes of Open Skillets, The Covered Caserole, The Sauce Pot, and The Stock Pot.

    This was starting to look real expensive and at the time it probably was. That was 1992.

    Those Lagostina pots and pans that I was all upset about have been used a few times a day, every single day since she brought them home. They still look and perform like new!

    These things I know:

    1) Those pots and pans were a hell of a deal
    2) I didn’t know that at the time
    3) I’ve learned to trust my wife to make the right decision on things that I know nothing about
    4) Value and price paid are two different things

    Thomas, that tractor was a gift at $600 bucks! Follow our articles on “Rattle Can Paint Job” to shine that thing up, order a new seat cover for that thing, and change the light bulbs, they’re 2 for $7.

    If your wife still thinks that you got a raw deal on the Kubota, Mr. K and I are prepared to give you $1200 for it, sight unseen. We’ll be there in three hours to pick it up!

    Service Dept Vic

  54. Ian Said,

    January 14, 2009 @ 8:44 pm

    Hi Vic,
    Great site, first one i’ve found really getting into detail about grey market Kubotas. I’m Selling my Sunshine L1-R26 model and am confused about engine and pto specs to tell potential customers. Would you be able to help out with any info about this particular model. I have been hard pressed to find anything but a few pictures about it. Thanks
    Ian
    Victoria BC

  55. keith Said,

    January 15, 2009 @ 5:51 am

    Hi guys from orstralya, Great website, just a couple of questions.
    1 Is it possible to work out the date of manufacture from the serial no.s and chassis no.s of any Kubota tractor?
    2 If an implement has a 25 hp gearbox (e.g. slasher) and I,m using a 40 hp tractor, will the tractor be to powerful for the slasher ? Even when running at the correct PTO speed.(540 RPM).

  56. Vic Said,

    January 15, 2009 @ 11:27 am

    Hi Keith, Yep-give us a serial number, engine number and tractor model number and we should be able to de-code it.

    Concerning your slasher (rotary rough cut mower) question, your tractor has more power than the design limitations of the gearbox allow, and here’s why.

    A 25HP gearbox on a slasher behind a tractor with a 20HP PTO output, turning at 540 rpm can never be “over driven/over torqued”. If the slasher encounters very thick grass or shrubs, it will bog down a little, until the tractors govenor kicks in to compensate for the increased load demand. The operator may also sense the increased load on the implement and might raise the 3 point to clear the debris or may clutch the tractor to stop the PTO from delivering power to the implement.

    A tractor with a 40HP PTO output also turning at 540 rpm under the same conditions would not bog down. The operator would not become aware of any congestion plugging or overloading the slasher and would not make a move to clutch the tractor or raise the implement.

    When the debris or overload on the slasher gets to a point where it finally does bog the tractors engine down, the input “torque” on the 25HP gearbox is well exceeded and the gear box case will split. Top to Bottom. Seen it. Done it. Scared the crap out of me!

    You can still use your tractor and that slasher by installing a slip-clutch on the PTO input shaft. You may have to modify the shaft by shortening it to accomodate the clutch. These slip clutches are often adjustable to a certain “torque” or a maximum input HP.

    If exceeded, the clutch packs will “slip” releasing the torque load on both the tractor and the implement.

    Service Dept Vic

  57. keith Said,

    January 15, 2009 @ 2:17 pm

    Thanks Vic, Great idea, Why didn,t I think of it? Unless the gearbox on the slasher is stamped with it,s horsepower rating, Is the only way to know by it,s physical size?

  58. Vic Said,

    January 15, 2009 @ 7:21 pm

    Keith, Here in Canada the 40HP gearboxes on rotary mowers 48-60″ in width are about the norm. Buhler industries has a 48″ rotary that indicates a 30HP gearbox.

    I’ve sold a few of the Farm King Buhler units and they were pretty beefy.

    MK Martin manufactures the “Thrifty Cutter” line in Canada, they use a 40HP gearbox across a wide range of their models from 42″ right up to 66″. I have a 60″ Thrifty Cutter that I use behind my Kubota L2650DT.

    See if you can find a brass tag or manufacture information anywhere on the gear box. The physical size may not tell the true story. It’s better to be safe than sorry, wouldn’t you agree?

    Service Dept Vic

  59. keith Said,

    January 16, 2009 @ 1:23 am

    Couldn,t agree more, thanks for the advice Vic, Sorry I forgot to send the details of a tractor manufacture date,
    Chassis no. 53131
    Engine no. 19257
    Model L2201DT

  60. Vic Said,

    January 16, 2009 @ 10:39 am

    Keith, Based on the chassis serial, your L2201DT rolled Kubotas’ Tsukuba Japan Assembly Plant the last week of Feb 1978 and was one of 4773 Double Traction units built.

    Service Dept Vic

  61. Mr. K Said,

    January 16, 2009 @ 11:56 am

    Keith, if you have any pictures of your L2201 we’d like to see them. Post one or two in our gallery if you get a chance.

  62. nicky Said,

    January 17, 2009 @ 8:15 pm

    hey vic.
    update on b7000. ordered part from number you sent me from kubota in uk. got it christmas week and finally got to put it in second of jan. pto in tractor now running like a dream. thank you very very much. nicky.

  63. Steve Said,

    January 18, 2009 @ 1:12 pm

    Vic
    I’m collecting parts to refrebish my B 5001. I ordered a seat cover (66704-83500) and when it came I found that it has no padding. I can’t find any part number for it either. What is used between the metal seat and the cover?
    Steve

  64. Vic Said,

    January 19, 2009 @ 8:50 pm

    Nicky, We’re here to help! Glad you got that Kubota back in one piece!!

    Service Dept Vic

  65. Vic Said,

    January 19, 2009 @ 8:56 pm

    Hi Steve, Yep, been down that factory seat cover with no foam road a few times!

    Kubota chose to make the vinyl cover material available, complete with new brass securing eyelets, but no foam. (I think we’re supposed to replace the cover before the foam deteriorates to nothing!)

    If you find yourself needing the foam, you may find a good local upholstery shop that could fab something up for you, otherwise it’s back to Kubota for a complete new seat! Yikes!!

    Service Dept Vic

  66. Vic Said,

    January 19, 2009 @ 9:01 pm

    Ian,

    We’ve got some info comming on the Kubota L1-R26 of yours and we’ll post a feature article on it in a few days. Thanks for the pics you emailed, watch the site for a brief story, specifications, and info on this rare Kubota!

    Service Dept Vic

  67. Steve Said,

    January 20, 2009 @ 5:31 pm

    Thanks Vic. I’m off to the upholstery shop to get a nice ride.
    I spoke with my friendly Kubota dealer about ordering a ROPS and he said that they must install it. A little timid to bring my B5001 in for that so I acted dumb (easy for me) and let him know that I had 2 serial numbers. One for a B5100 and one for a B5001. He’s looking into it but I don’t hold much hope this will work in my favor.
    Thanks anyway. On to plan B.
    Steve

  68. Vic Said,

    January 20, 2009 @ 5:55 pm

    Steve, Well I suppose the local Kubota dealer is looking to make a little labor on that $148 ROPS and a Seatbelt Safety Campaign! I guess theres nothin’ wrong with that! Upload a pic of that B5001 to our gallery when you have time!

    Service Dept Vic

  69. Ian Said,

    January 21, 2009 @ 5:24 pm

    Hi Vic
    Thanks for the update. I’m looking forward to some actual info on this tractor. I have not been able to find anything. Thanks so much! I’m gonna keep my eyes peeled for your article.
    Ian

  70. dusty-t Said,

    January 21, 2009 @ 11:13 pm

    Hey Vic . Great site. I have a B8200 with a stuck clutch. It does not bother me much because it is hydro. I really haven’t looked at it. I know there is an access panel,but I don’t know how much of a view it is going to give me. Any advice would be appreciated. Again great site . I love it.

  71. keith Said,

    January 22, 2009 @ 4:45 am

    Hey guys, I had an enquiry about a Kubota L1 295. Bent crankshaft. Would you be able to tell me a matching model number or options to repair it. Thanks a lot.

  72. Keith Said,

    January 23, 2009 @ 1:22 am

    OOPs, Sent a few photos and doubled up on one of them, please feel free to delete it if you want guys. These computer gizmo,s are tricky.

  73. Vic Said,

    January 23, 2009 @ 2:43 pm

    Keith, you’ve got a disaster on your hands with that one! The L1-295 runs Kubota’s 4 cyl V1512-TVL engine which is going to be a problem locating parts for, period! The engine rates at 33HP out of 1499cc’s. I would think that unless you can get you hands on a used engine then you may have to consider an engine exchange. The Kubota L345DT was equipped with the 4 cylinder V1501 engine so dimensionally it should bolt right up. I don’t have a JDM manual for the L1-5 Series Kubota’s so I cannot cross reference the part however I can tell you the crankshaft part # for the L345DT is 15401-23010 and cost around $1100USD.

    The bigger issue is WHY is that crankshaft bent and how much other damage has occured in the time it took to shut that engine down. By the time you factor in bearings, pistons, liners, labor and machine shop charges it may not be worth repairing the engine. Either way, let us know how you make out. Service Dept Vic

  74. Vic Said,

    January 23, 2009 @ 2:54 pm

    Dusty-t, well, I don’t think you’re going to see much or for that matter do much through those inspection areas. If memory serves me correctly, there are two rubber caps, one round and one triangle shaped on the top of the housing, as well as a metal inspection cover forward the rubber triangle that can be removed. You’ll see a cap on the RH side that can be removed for a look as well. Is the disc stuck to the flywheel, or is the release bearing or clutch fork siezed up? Let us know! Service Dept Vic

  75. keith Said,

    January 23, 2009 @ 4:55 pm

    Thanks Vic, It,s been two weeks now and haven’t found anything. I’ll keep you posted.

  76. Jim Said,

    January 23, 2009 @ 6:24 pm

    Thanks for the reply Vic. Haven’t had a look yet. I’m kinda laid up with a bad leg. Ido snow for my neighbours mostly older folks. Anyway my b7200 went TINK!!!. So i went and bought this b8200. work’s great but for the clutch. Now for all I know the release bearing, fork ,and clutch are all seized. And I have no problems if I have to replace these. I love the tractor and for me it is worth it. The clutch doesn’t slip so the only issue is having to shut the tractor off to engage the pto. In the spring I can tear it apart and fix it when I have time. What you said about the inspection covers is pretty much as I figured. I kind of figured it had sat for a while when I went to see it. I’ll post back when I get into the repair. Again great site .Thank You.

  77. fanno Said,

    January 24, 2009 @ 5:19 am

    I have a kubota “grey” L1500 with a Z750 engine. I can be a real pain to start. Would any one know of a gear reduction starter that would suit this model, or even the make and part number of the original starter as the old one has been painted over. Thanks from australia, great site.

  78. Vic Said,

    January 24, 2009 @ 2:00 pm

    Hi fanno, I can tell you from working on many, many 2cyl Kubota’s that they fire right up!

    Are you “glowing” the glow plugs before cranking the tractor over, and if so, for the appropriate time based on the ambient outside temperature?

    If you are glowing the plugs and it’s not assisting the “fire up”, have you traced the power wire to the glow plugs and checked to see if power is hitting the glow plugs when glowing?

    If so, have you pulled them out and bench tested them to see if they ignite with 12V power applied?

    How’s that air filter? Has the fuel filter been changed recently?

    Here’s an easy one, how old is that diesel fuel? Have you pulled an injector and taken a look at the bottom of the pintle tip? Is it all caked in baked on crust? Clean it up being careful not to drop the injector or bend the tip.

    What color is the exhaust smoke when if finally fires up? White, black, white then it clears? Does the battery crank the engine over at sufficient speed?

    Take a look at cylinder head decompression cam on the top of the valve cover, make sure that it’s not “rocked” over or stuck in a partially open position. If it’s siezed and doesn’t move, like most of them are, remove the valve cover and service the rocker shaft on the underside of the valve cover. A partially actuated cylinder head decompression mechanisim will make the tractor very hard to start, or not fire at all. A valve cover cranked down too tight will also do the same thing.

    Rule it out, by removing the valve cover and then glowing and starting the tractor. If it fires right away, you’ve found your problem area. Let us know a few more details, post a picture or two of it! We’re here to help!

    Service Dept Vic

  79. fanno Said,

    January 25, 2009 @ 3:48 am

    Thanks for the reply, I have tried everything except clean the injectors. It started first go yesterday with a jumper pack, but would fire straight away today. I feel that I’m not getting enough CCA’s from the battery, I’m using a 550 cca at the moment and was considering a 700-800 cca battery, but I have seen gear reduction starters for sale here in australia that are suited to the L1500 and I thought that it would be better alround by not putting so much strain on the system. I was wondering if there were any starters from a car ect. that would be interchangeable. I have no way of cross referencing as I don;t know the original part number.

  80. Vic Said,

    January 26, 2009 @ 10:46 am

    Fanno,

    Anytime that you have a Kubota Service Complaint of “Engine Cranks Slowly” you must consider the battery as the primary source of the problem.

    As you know, cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is good especially in cold weather. Your 550 CCA battery may be a little on the skinny side of capacity.

    For your L1500 Kubota specifies a battery with a minimum amp/hour rating of 74, however the “amp/hour” formula has pretty much been eliminated in favor of Cold Cranking Amps.

    Here in Western Canada in the shadow of the Rocky Mountains we have this famous saying: “You can never have too much Battery”.

    Why do we have that saying you may be asking yourself?

    Well its because as the battery in your Kubota discharges not only does it diminish its internal store of energy, but its internal resistance also increases (as the electrolyte becomes less and less conductive), and its open-circuit cell voltage decreases (as the chemicals become more and more dilute).

    The best check for a battery’s condition is a voltage measurement under load, while the battery is supplying a substantial current through a circuit, like cranking the starter over!

    If you use a simple voltmeter “check” across the terminals without an applied load, your meter will falsely indicate a healthy battery (adequate voltage) even though the internal resistance has increased considerably.

    The starter motor as supplied in the L1500 with a Z750 engine is of non-gear reduction type.

    I’d recommend a larger capacity battery for starters, and contact us if you require any other parts!

    Service Dept Vic

  81. AK Said,

    January 26, 2009 @ 3:56 pm

    Your fantastic web site has inspired me to restore my recent B6100DT purchase(See Gallery post from AK) after reading your articles and watching the videos. The tractor is a little rough, has 1,400 hours and runs strong. I think it mostly was used as a mower.

    I have 2 questions for you:

    1) The PTO has a noise when I turn it on. It turns OK. Is this a difficult repair? Costly?
    2) The serial number is 14,114. Do you know what year this tractor was made?

    AK

  82. Vic Said,

    January 26, 2009 @ 9:32 pm

    AK, Mr. K and I are here to help! Glad you like our site! Regarding that PTO noise, it sounds like a bearing, and it’s serviceable from the PTO stub end. Remover the bolts, and draw the stub shaft out. Check the bearing, if it feels rough when you turn it by hand, then replace it.

    Costly? No, but avoiding the repair will be expensive! $25 for a bearing and a Sunday afternoon is a good deal.

    Based on the serial number you’ve provided, your Kubota is a very early production 1977.

    Service Dept Vic

  83. nategrizz Said,

    January 28, 2009 @ 3:46 pm

    i recently purchased a ’79 L185 with steering problems. im told the box is no longer available but i can buy a kit for almost $700.00. the shaft has knocked a hole in the bottom of the steering box, i have both broken pieces can i have it welded back? or what do you recommend? also what causes the shaft to move up and down instead of just the gear block, can it be fixed or have to be replaced?

  84. Vic Said,

    January 28, 2009 @ 7:29 pm

    Nategrizz,

    Wow! I can’t beleive it! There is a mole in the office over here! We have a feature article comming down the pipe on rebuilding the steeringbox in you Kubota tractor! This is a very common service complaint! Watch for full detailed explanation from start to finish on this rebuild with lots of pics and info!

    To answer you question, the gear block is held in place with bearings. One at the top of the gear block and one at the bottom. There is help for that L185! Stay tuned for the whole story comming in a day or two!

    Service Dept Vic

  85. nategrizz Said,

    January 28, 2009 @ 9:52 pm

    awesome, thank you so much. unless im wrong thats 162.40 u.s. right? do you sell that kit and what would it cost me for that kit shipped to 36316 in alabama?

  86. Vic Said,

    January 29, 2009 @ 9:52 am

    Nategrizz,
    We do sell all the parts, but so do all your local Kubota Dealers, support them!

    Watch for a full detailed article with lots of overhaul pics on how to undertake this common Kubota Service Complaint comming shortly!

    Service Dept Vic

  87. Ian Said,

    January 29, 2009 @ 6:31 pm

    Hi Vic,
    Any ETA on info for L1-R26?
    Thanks a Bunch
    Ian

  88. Mr. K Said,

    January 29, 2009 @ 10:50 pm

    Hey Ian,

    That article has actually just been posted. You can find it here:

    http://www.orangetractortalks.com/2009/01/the-l1-r-series-kubotas-reverse-tractors/

  89. nategrizz Said,

    January 30, 2009 @ 4:16 am

    vic,
    this should get me fixed up. thanks

  90. adam Said,

    January 30, 2009 @ 7:08 pm

    Vic
    I’m trying to find glow plugs for my B5001 and can’t seem to get a good part number. It has a NKG Y-103K in it that has a flat seat. A 15261-6551-4 is a NGK Y-103K and is listed for a B5100 but is a little longer and has a tapered seat. The part # in the B5001 manual is a 15261-6551-2 but I can find anyone on line that can match that number. I did find a NGK Y-103V listed for a B5001 but it is basicly the same as the Y-103K with the tapered seat. Any ideas?
    Steve

  91. Vic Said,

    January 30, 2009 @ 9:30 pm

    Steve, Ya, that’s a confusing one. Kubota indicates these 2 glow plugs as interchangeable and as you know they are different.

    The NGKY-103V is full glow at 13-17 seconds and recommended for the B5001 and is Kubota Part # 15951-65510, prices at $36 bucks each!

    Service Dept Vic

  92. hawkhillsfarm Said,

    February 6, 2009 @ 3:20 pm

    I have a sunshine L1-455,about 10 years old.It has a front end loader and a tiller.
    I live in Lloydminster Alberta,Canada.Need to find a service manual and info.I now know it is a gray model,but it is a great tractor.Any info and help would be great.
    Thanks John

  93. Mr. K Said,

    February 6, 2009 @ 3:48 pm

    Hello there John, thank you for having a look.

    Vic might be able to locate a manual for you, OR, our gray market parts partner, yenibiz.com might be able to help you out. Looking on their site now I do see that they have a few reference manuals available for the L1 series Kubotas – worth dropping them a line.

  94. hawkhillsfarm Said,

    February 6, 2009 @ 6:30 pm

    Thanks,I looked at yenibiz.com.Could not find the manual for my model.I am going to drive out to my farm and get all the # ‘s I can find.This is a great site,I know I am going to learn alot about this great orange machine.
    Cheers John

  95. Mr. K Said,

    February 6, 2009 @ 7:35 pm

    Hey again John – not sure if you emailed them or not – they might not have the manual for your model listed. Thanks for the feedback and stay tuned! Myself and Service Department Vic try to update the site on a regular basis.

  96. Ian Said,

    February 9, 2009 @ 5:54 pm

    Hello again, wonerding if you fellows might have replacement tines for the tillers that come with the grey market tractors. Thanks
    Ian

  97. Vic Said,

    February 9, 2009 @ 6:55 pm

    Hi Ian,

    Good to hear from you again!

    Yep, we sell a pile of those tiller tines! They are hard as hell to find and unique to the Kubota Gray market tillers and we always have more demand for them then we can get allotted to us. We also have the smaller tines for tillers fitted to the B5/6/7001 tractors.

    Your Gray Market Tiller will have 32 tines. 16RH and 16LH, they price at $15 each. Correct metric shear bolt/nut/locks are $1.10 each. They weight a ton so we ship them in a plastic pail via Greyhound as it is the least expensive shipping method in Canada, and they accept single packages up to 100 lbs!

    Contact through email if you’d like us to process an invoice payment request.

    Service Dept Vic

  98. Ian Said,

    February 9, 2009 @ 8:25 pm

    Thanks Vic, I’ll check how many i need tomorrow and then send and e-mail.
    Regards
    Ian

  99. nategrizz Said,

    February 16, 2009 @ 12:37 pm

    vic, i tried to order the steering box for my L185 from my dealer with the number you gave me. they said they cant get that box except in a kit for over 600. wkytp has the kit for 500. any other ideas? just need the box, i think i can use everything else.

  100. Vic Said,

    February 16, 2009 @ 7:32 pm

    Well, isn’t that just great! I plugged in the following part numbers of the L185 Steering Box Case: 34150-16110 changes up to 34150-16113 $303.05 for production serial numbers below 51201
    35240-16110 now changes up to H3520-99100 $674.30 for production above serial # 51202

    What’s interesting here is the 35240-16110 part was priced at $115.19 and I did not come up with a change up part number the last time I looked at this for you! That’s a big price jump on that part.

    You need a used box!

    Service Dept Vic

  101. nategrizz Said,

    February 16, 2009 @ 7:50 pm

    i agree. ive tried a couple places but no luck, any source suggestions? the hole in the bottom of my box did not reach the seat for the bearings (just where the shaft would hit) do you still think i shouldnt try to have it welded?

  102. Vic Said,

    February 16, 2009 @ 7:59 pm

    Welding cast is tough enough without having to make sure the lower bearing race presses into it’s detent in the bottom of the box. I guess you could give it a try, you all ready know what the options are!

    Service Dept Vic

  103. dave Said,

    February 17, 2009 @ 10:13 pm

    This is the first time i have done this,i have a kobota b6000 4×4 that i just bought and did not look at the pto,it is leaking and the shaft is not good,i just want to fix the leak for now,is this hard to do,there is three bolts that hold the shaft ,if i take them off does this hold the seal, thanks dave.

  104. Shane gattis Said,

    March 21, 2009 @ 4:22 pm

    Hey Vic, I have a Zen-Noh ZL-1802-FD need to know what hydraulic fluid to use. Also looking for a manual any ideas? It Is a 3cyl diesel starts easy runs strong but after using bucket or rear blade for a while, the fluid gets hot and hydraulics wont work very well. Do not know if it has correct fluid or am I loosing my pump. Also where can I find any numbers on engine or somewhere?

  105. Vic Said,

    March 23, 2009 @ 7:45 pm

    Shane, Use transmission oil recommended for tractors with a common resivoir for the transmission and the hydraulics. I have WSM’s available that cover similar Norht amaerican models, but remember the “02″ Series are hybrids, mad in co-operation with Daedong. Follow to the forums for an answer on your hydraulics, I think you have an incorrect hydraulic filter.

    Vic

  106. charles Said,

    March 27, 2009 @ 10:43 am

    Just bought a L1500dt. runs well, what North American model corresponds to this? Also, what’s the grey market tractor situation like in Canada at the moment? I’m in TN, but I’d like to take this machine w/ me if I move back to Canada. Also, is it possible to convert this unit into a live PTO setup?

  107. JOHNNIE Said,

    May 6, 2009 @ 1:00 pm

    I HAVE A L1501 AN NEED THE EXHAUST ELBOW COMEING OFF THE MANFOL .WHERE MAY I FIND ONE

  108. JOHNNIE Said,

    May 6, 2009 @ 1:01 pm

    NEED BEARINGS FOR FRONT WHEELS ON A L1501

  109. Vic Said,

    May 6, 2009 @ 7:59 pm

    Johnnie, we have those in stock, $89 includes new gasket. Let ne know if you need me to ship you one.

  110. Vic Said,

    May 6, 2009 @ 8:05 pm

    Johnnie, we have those bearings in stock. Inners, $12, outers $16 and new seals $26each. Let me know if you need me to send them to you.

  111. JOHNNIE Said,

    May 7, 2009 @ 5:05 am

    WHAT SITE DO I NEED TO GO TO VIC TO ORDER THE EXHAUST ELBOW

  112. Vic Said,

    May 7, 2009 @ 8:54 pm

    Johnnie, just send me a private message, or email me:

    acreageoutfitters@hotmail.com

  113. Vic Said,

    May 8, 2009 @ 9:48 pm

    Charles, You can bring that L1501 with you, Gray Market Kubota’s welcome in Canada!!

  114. mark Said,

    May 10, 2009 @ 3:52 pm

    Hello was looking to get a ZEN-NOH YM1500 is it the same as a kubuta can i get a manual and parts the tractor looks in perfect condition but needs a gear in the tranny has a broken tooth thank you

  115. Bryan D. Said,

    May 10, 2009 @ 6:12 pm

    What fluid goes inthe area where the shifter is in my L 2000 ? 2nd what is the american version of this model ?

  116. Vic Said,

    May 12, 2009 @ 6:56 am

    It’s a Yanmar Tractor if you’re seeing YM as part of the model number. Zen-Noh is not the name of any tractor brand. Is this tractor red and white by chance?

  117. mark Said,

    May 13, 2009 @ 7:06 pm

    Not sure on the color on the hood is says Zen-Noh it also has YM1500 and its a 2cyl diesel the writing on the safety tags is in a diff language I will check on the color thanks

  118. Mr Bill Said,

    May 21, 2009 @ 7:18 am

    I’m looking at a buying a L2200 with after market front loader. What is the NA equal?

  119. mark Said,

    May 26, 2009 @ 5:58 am

    Hello Vic took me awhile to go look at the tractor the color is lime green has 479hrs Ser#03159 motor 2TR15-03425 its in great condition just needs the one gear when you take the shifter cover off the gear is right on top

  120. Andrew Said,

    May 26, 2009 @ 7:18 am

    Hi Vic
    Fantastic information on your website. Can you tell me the equivalent service parts (filters etc) for a Kubota L1 R24or should I try to purchase after market products? I got a lot of good information from your feature on the reverse tractor and also reading the history of the gray tractors. Thanks.

  121. Vic Said,

    May 26, 2009 @ 8:10 am

    Andrew, We should have the filter crosses you’re looking for posted on out Filter Lookups. Just look for the same engine model and you’ll have your filters! Glad you liked the history of your tractor! Until we published it, the L1-R Series tractors we’re considered a an “oddball”. Now you can see just how advanced they are in terms of engineering and muli-practic uses!

  122. Vic Said,

    May 26, 2009 @ 5:40 pm

    Mark, The color tells me you’re looking at an early to mid seventies vintage North American Yanmar, the Zen-noh name and YM1500 model identifier, tells me someone repainted a red and white JDM Yanmar, to the Northe American color scheme. Either way, I can’t help with parts or manuals, sorry!

  123. Lenny Said,

    June 18, 2009 @ 10:42 am

    Hi Vic,
    From reading the comments posted on your forum I have learned a lot about Kubota tractors. It’s the most informative information source I have found so far. Enough brown nosing! Last week I acquired a B6000. It came with a roto tiller, snow blade, woods RM- 59-1 brush hog, and single blade hoe. I pretty much got all the goodies I need,included in the purchase.

    I spent a long time searching for the right tractor. It was difficult to find one with a loader in good condition and a the right price so I compromised and purchased one with out the FEL. I soon learned that to find a used FEL was like looking for a needle in a hay stack. To buy a new one was almost the price of buying a used tractor with a FEL . After a few days of searching I located a used woods FEL off a B6000 which was in a fire. I am presently restoring the loader. Tthe price made it worth refurbishing with new control valves pistons and hoses. Now the search begins a 619B back hoe or a method of reversing the PTO so other backhoe models can be used.
    I have a few questions:
    Question (1) can you tell me more about the process of getting the ROPS for my tractor? Is mty tractor grey market?
    My B6000 ss# is 70974 Engine # ZL600-069725 Do I qualify?
    Question (2) is there a woods back hoe set up or other brand which will accept the reverse PTO. I know about the 619 but people who have them won’t let them go.
    Question (3) How may GPH is the hydraulics system on the B6000 tractor. The information is not in the manual or available from my local Kubota dealer. (Is it top secret?)
    Question (4) is it true that a hydrostatic transmission on newer tractors takes power away from implements like loaders?
    Question (5) Is there a post hole digger that works on a reverse PTO?

    Thanks

    Lenny

  124. Vic Said,

    June 19, 2009 @ 7:59 pm

    Lenny, So many questions!!

    1) Your B6000 is not a gray market, even if the operation decals are all printed in Japanese. The US and JPY versions are absolutley identical and therefore the B6000 does not fall into a gray market category. Your serial number does not come up in Kubota’s online lookup system

    http://www.kubota.com/f/safety/rops_support.asp

    used to determine if your tractor is elegible for the US based ROPS and a Seatbelt program. It’s not comming up as a result of database programming abd not because it’s not elegible. Kubota USA can’t tell if your tractor was originally a Japanese version B6000 or a US version either, so you’ll have to contact them directy and press your case. You’ll probably get your ROPS.

    2) Nothing works with a reverse PTO. Kubota got some real bad advice when they were working on the B6000, I think it was from someone on the design team for the Mitsubishi S-370D Beaver tractor of the same vintage. The Beavers were also built with a backwards turning PTO for JPY consumption, while most US shipped Satoh’s had the PTO reverser all ready added. Regardless, it’s a setback. Look for and happily pay dearly for a used “Hub-City” brand PTO reverser for your Kubota. Don’t argue the price if you find one, and it will be severl hundered dollars used. Drive many many miles to be the first in line to buy it. Lock it up at night when you do get it.

    3) The B6000 hydraulic pump chimes out a tiny 3.5-3.8 GPM, with a ton of pressure. While this is lots to operate the 3 point, it will make for a real slow loader. Op to go with an aux on pump that can be powered from the front PTO, or off the drive belt.

    4) Hydrostatic transmissions develop so much GPM it’s stupid, but they power only the transmissions. There is still a seperate hydraulic pump for the 3 point and loader!

    5) Yes, Lenny there is a post hole digger that will work in conjunction with the reverse PTO on your B6000. Here’s how it works:

    Park, or situate your Kubota B6000 as near the hole being dug as is safe to do. make sure that PTO stub shaft is pointing in the direction of the hole, give or take 5-10 degrees. Take out your long handled spade and start digging the hole. When you feel tired from digging and need a rest, lean the shovel up against back of the tractor, taking care not to scratch the paint on the tractor or shovel!! :)

  125. Lenny Said,

    July 6, 2009 @ 4:38 am

    Vic.
    In your photo gallery on your home page there is a BLUE loader mounted on a orange tractor. The guy posting the picture said he just finished refurbing it. I have the same exact loader I bought used but cant identify a brand. I need this information so I can order a belly mount bracket for my b6000. Can you help

  126. Vic Said,

    July 8, 2009 @ 7:41 am

    Michael, isn’t this L1801 your tractor that Lenny is talking about??

  127. RON Said,

    July 12, 2009 @ 6:11 pm

    Hi,
    I have an eye on a 1998 GL-32 kubota.I am told that it is not a model with a reverse rotating PTO.Do you agree?Also apparently it doesn’t have a live PTO my inexperience into tractors world doesn’t allow me to evaluate how important a drawback that is.What you think.Wich engine this one has?All comments about this tractor are welcome.thanks.Ron

  128. Vic Said,

    July 13, 2009 @ 4:07 pm

    Ron, The PTO will rotate clockwise. Live PTO means that when you disengage the clutch to stop the tractor moving forward, the implement attached to the rear PTO will continue to be powered up. In other words, the PTO stays engaged. Pushing the clutch pedal down a little further will disengage the rear PTO. Unless you are running a hay baler I doubt you’d need that feature. Not sure on engine model, but it will be utilized in a few North American pieces of equipment.

  129. greg Said,

    July 14, 2009 @ 11:22 am

    I did not know about grey markets until after purchaseing one. I had it for four years now and it runs super. I was told it was an 86′ 18hp., the sticker says Zen noh ZL1501 and its a 2 cylinder. It looks like the pix on this website of the ZL1501. My questions are: what is this tractor comparable with, such as starter,exhaust manifold etc.. and does it have a water pump or is it a perkerlator style? Thanks for your time and I am waiting on my registration conformation to your great and informative site!

  130. Vic Said,

    July 14, 2009 @ 7:09 pm

    Greg, That L1501 is probably a 1976 and it will share parts from a series of North American models. No water pump on these 2 cylinder models. Keep the coolant at proper strength, check the fluid level each day before operating and you’ll never have an over heat situation.

  131. Ron Said,

    July 17, 2009 @ 3:15 pm

    where can i find a good or rebuilt steering box for a grey market b7100 tractor

  132. Vic Said,

    July 17, 2009 @ 6:01 pm

    Ron, I’ve got all the new parts you’ll need to rebuild that box.

  133. Paul Schilling Said,

    July 19, 2009 @ 1:51 pm

    Vic, last month the steering on my B6200HST diesel failed. I looked around for a replacement steering box but can’t seem to find one. Now I’m thinking I might try rebuilding this. Is the B6200 steering the same as the L185? I don’t have a parts manual for this tractor so what parts would I need to rebuilt this?

    Were you planning on any more videos for steering repair?

    Thanks,
    Paul

  134. Vic Said,

    July 19, 2009 @ 8:01 pm

    Hi Paul, The box parts won’t interchange from the L-185. You are going to need:

    The Steering Shaft and Ballnut
    Upper and lower Steering Shaft Bearings
    Upper Steering Column Shaft Bushing
    Lower Steering Column Shaft Seal
    Pitman Arm Oil Seal
    Sector Shaft Cover Gasket

    Might be a good idea to have a Master Parts and Factory Assembly Order Manual for the B6200 available. It will detail all the correct part numbers, serial number changeups and cut-offs, as well as correct assembly order when overhauling that box. Contact me if you need a copy.

  135. Frank Kramer Said,

    July 24, 2009 @ 8:31 am

    Hi,
    I have a Kubota B1200 w/front loader I bought in 1996…..not aware of this grey market stuff. The tractor has been just great for the last twelve years but now I am having clutch problems. Will this tractor cross to any US made tractor for clutch parts or other required parts? Thank you….

  136. Stuart Said,

    August 8, 2009 @ 12:22 am

    I have a b7001 which I purchased in the spring of 2008. It came with the rototiller and after market loader. I love the machine, but now I want to add a few things.

    This one has the lift arms for the tiller, but just a pair of brackets for the lower connection to the tiller. I want to set up a 3 point hitch, so I can get a brush cutter ( 42″ max ) and other accessories. My concern is the top mount for the hitch – I just have a chain block there, used to keep the tiller in the ‘up’ position. Is there a specific bracket available?

    I have a chance to get the hitch assembly from a similar size chinese knockoff tractor, but the top bracket mount is a 6 bolt item and I don’t have the holes in the gear case to match that. Are the lower arms sufficiently generic that if they fit, they will work properly?

    PTO is 3 speed, clockwise, 6 spline – is this normal for the b7100? I have heard conflicting reports of different pto setups, specifically the CCW rotation.

    Wonderful site, thanks for being here

    Stuart

  137. Vic Said,

    August 8, 2009 @ 9:48 pm

    Stuart, You will need that top link bracket, I have them in stock they are $85.

    I also stock the correct aftermarket 3 point hitch setup specifically made for the B7001. It includes all the parts and pieces necessary to up convert from a 2 point to a full 3 point without any modification, drilling or dickin around! Budda-Bing, Budda -Boom. Time for a beer!

    I’ve upgraded several B7001′s to 3 points and when done, they look and perform factory! Hitch is $329 complete, and worth every penny in saved frustration, tire clearance issues, etc. Been there and done that with the cheap crap that didn’t work!

  138. RS Said,

    August 16, 2009 @ 11:50 am

    I own a Kubota GL33. I bought it this year and it has been running great. Only issue is that the right rear window broke. I have tried from a few different auto glass companies to try to make a custom fit but no luck. Next option was try to make something from plexi-glass. No luck as well.

    Anyone know where I can get the original part? Thank you.

  139. Vic Said,

    August 17, 2009 @ 7:17 am

    Hmm. Are you trying the right kind of glass shop? Contact the local Rod and Custom Body Shop guy in your town, the guy that does “chops and drops”. I tell you what. He knows someone or some shop that can do that for you!

  140. smitty Said,

    August 17, 2009 @ 1:04 pm

    hay Vic. Help please. I have what I think is a gray, on the metal tag it reads L240, 24ps, 2600rpm , everything else is in Jap writing. One thing I would love to fine a service manual for it. The problem I’m having is Fri. 8-14-09 I went to change out the bushog for my box scrap, after unhooking the bushog I moved over to get the box scrap and my hand hit the up lever on the lift and it came all the way up to the top, and now is stuck there.? I have taken the lines loose and no help. Any ideas.???
    Smitty

  141. Vic Said,

    August 17, 2009 @ 7:13 pm

    I don’t have a manual for the L-240 but I’m sure that your Kubota has some sort of 3 point “down” air lock screw. On most L-Series Kubota’s it’s the star shaped wheel on the lift cylinder case that controls the rate of decent of the 3 point, or if locked, will prevent the 3 point from comming down at all.

    The B-Series Kubota’s had a yellow colored bolt on the top of the 3 point cylinder case, that if you turned it down, the 3 point would descend slower.

    Was the lift going up and down fine with the bush hog attached??

  142. Vic Covaleski Said,

    August 25, 2009 @ 5:12 pm

    Hi Vic,
    I have a B7100HST and fluid started leaking out of my mid pto. I had been cutting a field with pretty tall grass with my rotary mower deck (starting high on the first pass and bringing it down for later passes) and there was grass wrapped around the mower drive shaft and the pto drive shaft and the hydraulic/tranny fluid was leaking around the pto oil seal. I got a replacement oil seal and am having trouble getting it on. I was told that tapping it on with a hammer would work but I get one side on and gently begin tapping around the seal but it just pops out from the side that is started as I tap around the seal to the opposite side. Any tricks on how to do this?
    Thanks,
    VicC

  143. Vic Said,

    August 25, 2009 @ 7:53 pm

    I usually find a large socket or use a piece of thick walled tube that I can use as a drift. I place it overthe seal holding it firmly and then drive the seal in fairly evenly. Make sure to lube it up with some grease or white lithium.

  144. clark Said,

    September 8, 2009 @ 5:10 pm

    i need a mower deck for a b7200 kubota

  145. jed Said,

    September 26, 2009 @ 2:12 pm

    am trying to find a waterpump for a L280 but don’t know how to find the equivilent tractor number. Are the numbers the same in Ireland as the US?

  146. TERRY Said,

    October 29, 2009 @ 9:21 am

    have fuond a nice used kubota L2050 tractor, but i cab’t find alot of info or specs on this model.can you give me some refrences or ideas? am new @ the used tractor thing, but need for home. thanx, terry.

  147. Jon Said,

    November 5, 2009 @ 1:11 am

    Hi Vic,

    I’m hoping you can help. I have a L4202DT (VT1502 engine). I’m wondering if you can tell me the model number this equals in the US.

    This will make it so much easier looking information up. :-)

    Thanks

    Jon (Aust’)

  148. Scott M Said,

    November 9, 2009 @ 12:57 pm

    Just bought a L1-38 and was wondering where to get the equivalent model number for Canada. Can I purchase manuals for this tractor. Not much info on this tractor but it works great.

  149. RICK PAPAY Said,

    November 16, 2009 @ 1:51 pm

    I HAVE A KUBOTA TRACTOR B6000, MOTOR ZL600. I,AM TRYING TO REBUILD MOTOR IF i CAN FIND ALL THE PARTS I NEED, BUT I ALSO NEED ALL THE TORQUE SPECS FOR THE WHOLE MOTOR, ALSO, NEED THE ORINGINAL STANDARD CRANK SPECS FOR ROD , AND MAIN BEARINGS, TO SEE, IF I CAN TURN DOWN CRANK FOR OVER-SIZE BEARINGS, TO SAVE CRANK? ANY INFORMATION, WOULD BE VERY HELP-FUL! THANK-YOU VERY- MUCH!!!!!

  150. Vic Said,

    November 16, 2009 @ 7:21 pm

    Rick, you need to invest in some technical resource material to assist you in that overhaul. I’d recommend the B6000 Workshop Service Manual and the B6000 Master Parts and Factory Assembly Order Manual to get you started!

  151. RICK PAPAY Said,

    November 17, 2009 @ 6:06 am

    VIC THANKS FOR REPLYING BACK! COULD YOU RECOMEND WHERE TO BUY SUCH MANUALS, I,AM HAVING NO LUCK. ALSO, TRYING TO FIND A CYLINDER, SLEEVE, FOR THIS MOTOR AND POSSIBLE, A CRANK. THANKS, AGAIN!

  152. Vic Said,

    November 19, 2009 @ 9:19 am

    Rick, I’ve got those manuals, send me a PM for price quote and shipping.

  153. Rick Said,

    November 20, 2009 @ 2:19 pm

    vic, thanks again for replying back. i,am intersted in a service manual, that would give me all the imformation i need to rebuild this motor tractor model b6000, it would have to have all torque, specs for motor, also, i,am still trying to find the standard crank specs in order to have crank turned down, for over sized bearings. I already have a parts manual. by the way, what is a PM? let me know, so I can get pricing. thank-you, again!

  154. Rick Said,

    November 25, 2009 @ 6:19 am

    vic thanks a lot for the information! yes it will help! thanks again!

  155. Jerry Said,

    December 15, 2009 @ 12:03 pm

    I have a B7100 manual transmission, CLUTCH WENT BAD. installed new pilot bearing. pressure plate, clutch disc, new clutch shaft, new shaft flex coupling, throw out bearing, new fork, bearing sleeve. Everything is new but the driver. I adjusted the clutch as the book says, started the tractor in gear and while cranking tractor started moving, readjusted the clutch,tried it again and it won’t disengage. I push the pedel all the way down and still no go. When started in netural the gears will grind when putting it in gear. Checked the tranny and it seems ok. I have done this 4 times splitting the tractor apart. I have talked to the service dept but they can’t figure it out. I have replaced the clutch before and haven’t had this problem. Even bought a second plate and disc and the same thing. Thanks for the help Jerry

  156. Vic Said,

    December 15, 2009 @ 6:15 pm

    Jerry, I didn’t see you mention that the flywheel was resurfaced or even measured. Did you check that flywheel with a guage? Did you measure the height of the 3 clutch levers on the pressure plate to ensure that they are all the same reference height? They need to be within .0197″ of each other measured with a feeler guage or the clutch will not disenguage properly, or if it does, expect alot of noise. Are you confident that the disc is orientated correctly?

  157. Justin Said,

    December 29, 2009 @ 6:13 am

    I have a kubota b5100 I am told you can’t put a small brush hog on it is this true. I am also wondering about the pto they say it is not standerd can you give me any info thanks.

  158. Michael Said,

    January 4, 2010 @ 8:59 am

    I have a L 1500 ( L 175???) which I have had for years. 1st , 2nd , and reverse are out, along with one of the PTO gears. Where can I get a manual for making repairs and parts ? Or for that matter maybe a replacement transmission. I see many manuals for this tractor but want to get the correct one. Please advise

  159. Service Dept Vic Said,

    January 4, 2010 @ 7:28 pm

    Michael, I’ve got a new main shaft for that L-1500, as well as the PTO gears, watch for a PM.

  160. Jo Said,

    January 27, 2010 @ 1:47 pm

    I have a gray market 1500l Kubota. I would like to know what is equivalent to it in US. I need to have engine overhauled.

    Thanks

  161. Jo Said,

    January 27, 2010 @ 1:49 pm

    Also need to know where I can get part for the gray market 1500L.

  162. David S. Said,

    February 15, 2010 @ 2:29 pm

    Hello , I’m looking for a rops for my B6000, can they be bought at the local kubota dealers ?

  163. Adam Said,

    February 22, 2010 @ 10:26 am

    Hi, great site! I am looking for a 1 3/8 6 spline pto shaft for a B6000, will one from a b7100 work if it is with housing that bolts to back of rearend?
    thanks, Adam

  164. Mark Wandless Said,

    August 10, 2010 @ 7:59 am

    I need to get a replacement stub axle for my L2201 / L245.

    Can anyone point me in the direction of a Uk or European supplier?

  165. Ed P. Said,

    August 10, 2010 @ 8:03 am

    I have a B6000E and my steering box is cracked. I want to replace it before i loose my steering completely but everyone i contacted is saying it is $500 to over $1,000. Any ideas on finding a unit being parted out?

    Thanks for the help.
    ed

  166. Service Dept Vic Said,

    August 15, 2010 @ 8:05 pm

    Hi Mark, I’ve got a new axle for that Kubota, send me a PM Vic

  167. Cindy Said,

    September 14, 2010 @ 7:55 pm

    I have a Kubota Sunshine, ZL1225DT…Can anyone tell me where I can find the service or repair and parts manuals for this little gray market gem?
    Is there any websites or companies out there that provide this kind of info?

    I have no problems yet, but would really like to get prepared if and or when the time comes for repairs.

    Thanks a bunch in advance,
    Cindy, the owner of a sexy little orange tractor. :O)

RSS feed for comments on this post · TrackBack URI

Leave a Comment

You must be logged in to post a comment.