If you have a Kubota, or any tractor, equipped with a front end loader, sooner or later you will find yourself wanting to remove that attachment. The job is straightforward and only takes 5 minutes after doing it once or twice. There is no excuse if you have been putting off service work (oil change?) because of a potential hassle getting that loader removed.
A front end loader not parked in a very practical location.
Before we begin, consider some of the reasons why folks typically remove their front end loaders:
to service their equipment
to service their loader
to make their tractor easier to maneuver
to make room for a different attachment
to sell a tractor separately from their loader (or the other way around)
Three Attachment Points
For most loaders, including the B1630 pictured on the Kubota B6200 below, there are three attachment points from the loader to the tractor. The first two are on the left and right tower columns that form the back of the loader and attach at the tractor mid-frame. The third attachment point is the bar and saddle that is just behind the bucket and mounts to the front of the tractor’s frame. Removing the loader will involve undoing the bolts and nuts from these connections as well as disconnecting all of the hydraulic lines that power the bucket and lift arms.
A Kubota B6200 with a factory B1630 front end loader.
Where to Park your Loader
You will be backing the tractor out from beneath the loader so consider this when choosing the location. Loaders are very heavy so it is unlikely that you will be able to remove the loader and then carry it away to a more suitable place – where you drop it is where it stays. Try to pick a spot that is firm, level and not a high traffic location. You do not want people or animals bumping into a parked loader.
Pull the tractor and loader into the park area straight-on. Do not have the wheels turned.
Lower your loader bucket to the ground and turn off your tractor. You want the top of the loader frame to be as parallel to the hood of your tractor as possible – it will make lifting up on the tower columns easier in a moment.
Tower Wedge Pins
The first step is to undo the two wedge pins that hold the left and right tower columns to the middle of the tractor’s frame. For future reference, the tighter these bolts are turned the harder the wedge holds in place. You may find that you have to tap the last inch or so of the bolt back out the other side with a mallet.
One of two loader wedge pins/bolts that hold the bottom of the tower columns onto the frame of the tractor.
A ratcheting socket wrench makes quick work of these pins.
Bar and Saddle Bolts
Next we want to move to the front of the loader and undo the two bolts holding the loader front bar to the saddle mounted on the front of the tractor’s frame. If these are a bit sticky whack them with a mallet to get the started.
Remove the two bolts from the loader bar and saddle at the front.
Kick Stands
At this point there should be nothing holding the frame of your loader onto the frame of your tractor except for some hydraulic lines. Your loader should have two kick stands (bent rods) that will serve to hold up the tower columns. Our kick stands were attached to the inside of the left loader frame.
The idea here is to lift the tower column and insert the kick stand. You do this with your own muscle. Do not power on the tractor and use the loader to do this in any way as it will not work. Having a second set of hands will help you. Each person goes to a tower column and lifts straight up. With your other hand push the kick stand in place all the way. The loader should now be resting on both kick stands.
One of two kick stands in place at the bottom of the tower columns.
Disconnect Hydraulics
All that is left is to disconnect all hydraulic lines feeding into the loader. Before you begin, take a moment to push the loader joystick around a bit to take any pressure off the lines – if you do not you may get a face-full of hydraulic fluid when you undo the couplings.
Your loader will likely have three lines – the hydraulic in that comes off the hydraulic pump itself, a hydraulic return line and a power beyond line. The couplings themselves are quick-disconnect, similar to what you would find on air-line fittings for an air compressor. To disconnect them push up and pull down the outer sleeve.
Hydraulic return (left) and power beyond lines (right).
Redirect Hydraulic Valve
After all of the lines are disconnected be sure to close the hydraulic valve that diverts hydraulic oil from the tractor into the hydraulic in line. This valve should be close to where your in-coupling was disconnected and may even have a red handle like our B6200 does.
We redirect the valve to make sure that the hydraulic pressure generated by your hydraulic pump is not up against your quick-connects that are now exposed.
We have disconnected the hydraulic in for the loader. Also note that the red-handled hydraulic valve is in the closed position to take the pressure off the quick disconnect couplers.
Back Out
The loader should now be 100% disconnected from the tractor – frame and hydraulic lines. Check the front tires are straight and slowly back out from the loader.
Backing out to leave the loader parked in place.
Tidy Up Those Lines
Before moving onto the next project we should tidy up and protect the loose ends of the dangling hydraulic lines. You can take the power in line and circle it back onto the exposed hydraulic in quick connect. The power beyond line can be capped with a hydraulic end-fitting (purchased for a few cents) and then tie-strapped to the other line to keep it out of the way.
Summary
park your loader – ground level, wheels straight, bucket lowered
remove tower column wedge pins
remove bar and saddle bolts at front
raise each tower column and hold up with a kick stand rod
If you have ever done some shopping for a new-to-you compact utility tractor, there is a good chance that you have come across a few gray market tractors in your search. A little extra research will turn up stern warnings detailing the grave dangers of gray market equipment ownership.
This article is going to dispel some of the most common misconceptions about Kubota’s gray market models. After reading this article we hope you agree that gray market tractors are not something to be fearful of owning, maintaining, repairing or operating.
Myth #1: Gray Market Kubotas are Illegal to Own
Gray market Kubotas are not illegal to own. In 1997 it became illegal to import Kubota gray market models into the United States. It is still legal to import gray models into Canada and many other countries. The General Exclusion Order awarded to Kubota by the US courts is to protect Kubota’s business interests in North America. The import ban on gray market models has nothing to do with their lack of reliability, performance or safety.
Myth #2: They are made in China
All of Kubota’s gray market models originate from Japan. Kubota manufactures tractors in Japan for the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM). You will find that gray market Kubotas have their hood decals, serial plating and operator’s manuals written in Japanese. For examples of Chinese tractors look for a Jinma or Foton.
Myth #3: A ZEN-NOH Tractor is not a Kubota
A ZEN-NOH (sometimes spelt Zen-noh or Zennoh) tractor is a Kubota. ZEN-NOH is the world’s largest agricultural cooperative and when you are that important, equipment companies including Kubota, will brand equipment for you. Kubota and ZEN-NOH models travel down the same assembly line – a lot like grocery store branded products versus name branded ones.
A ZEN-NOH L1500 (top) versus the North American Kubota equivalent, the L175 (bottom).
Kubota and ZEN-NOH models drive the same, smell the same, look the same and take the same parts and know-how to repair and maintain.
Myth #4: They are Dangerous
Kubota tractors manufactured for the JDM (read: for Japanese farmers) do not have a Roll Over Protection System (ROPS) or PTO shielding. The reason there is no ROPS is because these gray market models are primarily used for farming rice paddies – miles and miles of flat, flooded land. PTO shielding is not needed because the tractor only ever has a single implement that is never removed – a rototiller. On the assembly line the rototiller is mated to the tractor and it stays that way for its entire useful life in Japan and subsequent export outside of the country.
Gray market models are no more or less dangerous than any other tractor that does not have a ROPS or PTO shielding. That being said – it is a good idea to obtain a ROPS and PTO shield if your tractor is not so equipped.
Kubota has a ROPS and seat belt program whereby the owner of an older Kubota may obtain a new ROPS and seat belt at cost. This offering is only made available for North American models but the owners of gray market tractors will be happy to know that the parts will fit all the same.
Myth #5: You Cannot Get Parts
You can absolutely obtain replacement parts whether they are made by Kubota themselves or third party aftermarket suppliers. Kubota manufactures tractors for the JDM, North America, South America, Europe, India and a few others – they do not build a different wheel bearing for each market they supply to.
The difficulty arises when you contact your North American dealer looking for that same wheel bearing. His parts book will only list the North American applications, likewise, Japanese part suppliers only have parts for their market’s models.
A variation on the you cannot get parts myth is that the “counterfeiters” built these gray tractors but never made any of the individual parts available. Nonsense.
Myth #6: You Cannot Get Aftermarket Parts
Both OEM and aftermarket parts are available for a number of gray market models. Filters, waterpumps, alternators, seats, steering wheels, tires, you name it. Since many gray market models have a North American equivalent it is often possible to use the equivalent parts on your own gray model.
Myth #7: The PTO Turns the Wrong Way
PTOs typically rotate clockwise. Both the PTO and the implement being driven must turn the same direction. There are only two Japanese tractors where the PTO turns counter-clockwise: the Kubota B6000 and the Mitsubishi Satoh Beaver. So, this myth is only true in the case of the B6000 which is an example of a very early Kubota B-Series model.
The business end of a Kubota B6000. This one is a little rusty but it does the trick.
As an owner of a Kubota B6000 all is not lost. Hub City has been known to manufacture a PTO reverser that can correct the rotation of your B6000’s PTO. Alternatively, you can be on the look out for implements that are also counter-clockwise and thus compatible. There are a lot of B6000s and associated implements so this is not as difficult as it sounds.
Myth #8: Replacement Tires are Not Available
The original tires on a gray market Kubota are likely to be rice paddy tires. They have a tread that is 50% deeper and because of the taller tread, a wheel that is smaller so that the total outter diameter is within spec. Replacing the tires generally means replacing both the wheel and the tire.
Gray market Kubota B5000 with front and rear rice paddy tires. Also note the factory rototiller attachment.
Replacement tires are available and are likely at your local dealership. Tractor owners sometimes switch from ag tires to turf tires or back. That means your local dealership tends to collect spare wheels and tires over the years. Expect to pay $1000-1500 for replacing the rear wheels and tires on the average gray market Kubota.
Myth #9: My Local Dealer has No Idea what I Have
Your local dealer absolutely does know that your ZEN-NOH B6001 is really a B6100. He knows what waterpump fits it, what part number for the air filter and how to service the clutch. He probably has the parts in stock for you.
Given the choice, your dealership would very much like to help you. They would like to make those part sales and they would like to see you again when you need a hydraulic oil flush and coolant leak diagnosed. The problem for dealers in the United States is that they are instructed by Kubota corporate to turn away customers that need parts and service on their gray market models.
In this regard Kubota has done more to hurt their brand than help. For many, the first experience with a Kubota is a gray market model. When they discover that their dealership is unable or unwilling to support their own equipment it signals to that customer that they are not appreciated. Why would that owner go on to buy another Kubota for their next equipment purchase? Which out-of-touch executive thought of this as the best approach? Shortsighted!
Kubota missed an opportunity to buy some goodwill. The right thing to do would have been to take those gray tractors in on trade or at the very least supported owners by offering parts and service. Build a relationship. Strengthen your brand. The import ban came about in 1997. For the last 13 years there are no more gray market models entering the United States. Eventually, the existing gray market models will die out and as they do those owners will likely not return to Kubota.
Myth #10: Owning a Gray Market Kubota is a Hassle
Any owner of a tractor, gray market or not, needs to be prepared to:
obtain appropriate reference manuals
regularily inspect their equipment
perform regular maintenance
learn as much as they can and help others do so (join a forum)
be prepared to perform simple repairs
These are not things that are out of the ordinary when it comes to owning and operating a tractor.
Conclusion
Owning and operating a gray market Kubota, or any gray market tractor, is really a non-issue. There are sites like OrangeTractorTalks that will help you diagnose your repairs and put you in touch with parts and service vendors. In addition, a lot of gray market tractors have very few hours on them and represent a good value when it comes to making your compact utilty purchase. It would be silly to overlook such good opportunity because of some unfounded rumors.
Ahhh yes, you have taken the leap and plunged into the orange tractor club. Your Kubota B6200 is solid runner and you got a good deal on it too, maybe even picked up a belly mower and a front end loader as part of the package deal. What now though? Well, your Kubota is going to probably need some minor repairs and will need ongoing maintenance. Where do we start?
A Checklist!
This is a handy checklist that you can use to quick start getting to know your new-to-you Kubota. If you already have another piece of orange equipment then this guide is a good refresher. On the other hand, if you have never seen, touched, sat near or smelled a diesel engine before, no matter, you will be comparing CCAs and suction filters in no time!
Take Aways
Aside from specific details and procedures, the things that we hope you take away after running through this guide are:
getting to know your equipment better (controls, filter locations, manuals, etc)
insight into the mechanical state of your equipment
confidence when it comes to operating, servicing and discussing your Kubota
an understanding that maintenance is ongoing – be prepared to pay with a little time and money to maintain and service your equipment
Let us begin.
Cleaning
There is a very good chance that unless the previous owner of your equipment was Service Dept. Vic, that it will need a good cleaning. A tractor is a piece of dirty, earth moving, rototilling, tree stump pulling, mowing, snow plowing heavy iron. Generally a tractor is not something we think about washing very often if at all.
Cleaning is important because it will knock the years of dirt and grease off allowing you to better inspect for leaks, cracks and other wear and tear. Rinse it down with degreaser and pressure wash it off. If you have your Kubota trailered do not be afraid to pull it right into the wash bay at your local car wash. This type of cleaning is always the first thing we do with our equipment.
Parts and Operator’s Manuals
If you know what model Kubota you are getting you could even acquire these in advance. You will definitely need at least the parts and operator’s manuals. As equipment changes hands these manuals tend to get lost, so if your new purchase does not come with these manuals we recommend you get them. They cost anywhere from $30-50 each and are well worth the time to track them down. eBay or your local dealership are good starting points.
A parts manual is also handy not just because it provides part numbers. Each page details an exploded-view diagram of a section of your equipment. These exploded-views really come in handy when a repair calls for disassembly or if you have a broken part in your hand and are not exactly sure what it is.
An operator’s manual will detail not just how to control your equipment but other helpful things like: fluid levels, capacities, load limits, implement hookup and removal, wiring diagrams, simple troubleshooting, maintenance intervals and so on.
Typical look and feel of a Kubota operator's manual. This one for the B9200 is out of print so be sure to check on eBay!
Assess the Situation
After a good cleaning your next objective is to test the operation of everything on your tractor. The lights should work. The horn should work. Three point arms should lift and lower smoothly. You will know how everything is supposed to work because you have your operator’s manual close at hand.
General things to make note of as you go about your assessment:
leaks of any kind – oil, fuel, coolant
burnt smelling hydraulic fluid
milky/spotted oil or hydraulic fluid
anything that looks like a makeshift repair or anything non-standard – bypassed seat safety switches, mis-matched bolts, baling wire holding together some major engine component
missing PTO shield
missing, damaged or rusty ROPS (roll over protection system)
missing or damaged seat belt
the location of any grease zerks that you will need to return to later and lubricate
Quick Tip: Tighten Those Bolts
We are just about to talk specifics but here is a quick tip. Making sure each bolt you come across is nice and tight is actually a good way to get to know your equipment. As we go from area to area (air, fuel, oil, cooling and electrical systems) take the time to find the right socket or wrench, wipe down any grease or goo and button everything up nice and tight.
Air Filter
Replacing the air filter is recommended. The previous owner may have just replaced it, but we cannot be sure of that. Best to start a new service history right now.
Air box assembly.
Your air box is at the front of the tractor and has an end cap on it. When you open up the box you will see the filter element but also a silver bowl. A common mistake is to not dump the dirt and debris inside this silver bowl – be sure to do that. Install a new air filter and secure the rubber washer at the base of the filter, if not, unfiltered air will bypass the filter assembly entirely and make its way to the combustion chamber! Oops!
Fuel Filter
Kubota’s fuel filters come in two varieties: either a canister spin-on style (like an oil filter) or the more popular paper element in a sediment bowl. If you have an early L-series like an L175, L185, L1500 or L1501, you have a spin-on. Regardless of the type, we are going to want to replace this filter too. Order in advance to save yourself some time.
If you have the spin-on style simply place a catch basin below the filter, close the fuel petcock/valve, and spin the filter off. You will want to make sure the rubber o-ring at the top of the filter came off. Next, just spin a new filter on but not all the way – you can save yourself having to bleed the lines if you leave a slight 2-3 thread gap at the top. Turn the fuel valve back on, let the diesel fill the filter and run over and then finish tightening the rest. If you tighten all the way you will get an air lock and will need to bleed your injector lines.
A sediment bowl style filter is similar. The bowl is held onto the bottom of the fuel petcock by a large retaining ring. Loosen the ring to drop the bowl and get access to the paper filter inside. Replace with a new filter on top of the spring you find below the existing filter. Again to avoid bleeding the lines, tighten most of the way and then let the fuel petcock open, then finish tightening.
Oil Filter
As with the air and fuel filters you will want to perform an oil change. Kubota’s equipment uses a standard spin-on style filter that you can either acquire from the dealership or an aftermarket supplier like NAPA or Wix. If you have a gray market Kubota like an L1500, B1600 or B5000 those part numbers are a little harder to track down – luckily we them right here.
Kubota engine oil capacity ranges from 4-8 quarts so be sure you have enough replacement oil on hand – again something that your operator’s manual can provide you with specifics on.
When you drop the oil make note of its color – milky, green or spotted oil indicates that you have an oil/coolant mix somewhere and would have to diagnose further. Dark or black oil is okay – oil does get dirty as it cleans out and lubricates the engine.
Cooling System
Your Kubota’s cooling system consists of the radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses, a fan, a fan belt and a waterpump assembly. Most owners have a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water serving as their coolant. We do not recommend running just water because it causes all sorts of problems if it freezes while still inside the engine block.
radiator hoses should be firm but flexible – if they have cloth on them, they are original and must be replaced
fan belt should be tight with little slack and no more than 1/2″ of deflection – Kubota lettering indicates it is original and time for replacement
inspect the fan – it should have all of its blades crack and dirt free
pop the cap and look inside the radiator – expect to see green antifreeze – if not and there is even the slightest chance of freezing, replace the coolant
blow out the leaves, grass and debris from the front of the radiator
Test rad hoses by feeling for soft spots, twistly slightly and looking for tears or listen for ripping.
Electrical System
You are looking to confirm that the battery can hold a charge and that the charging system is working to recharge the battery. We have a lot of Kubotas with malfunctioning electrical systems where the owners just “make do” – whenever they need to start their equipment they just borrow the battery from the truck. That is a huge hassle, so do not take short cuts and do things right the first time. Using your Ohm meter, measure across the terminals. A properly charged battery should be in the close vicinity of 12.6V.
CCA (cold cranking amperes) is a measurement of the battery’s ability to deliver current at 0 degrees Fahrenheit. We recommend a battery that can deliver at least 850 CCA, 1000 CCA if you live in a cold climate.
When it comes to the battery terminals make sure you have clamp style connections – that is, a battery cable that sandwiches the lead at the back end of the connector. Typical enclosed style connectors are prone to breaking and thus provide a bad contact leading to intermittent electrical failure.
Left - clamp-style connector. Right - enclosed-style connector where the wire can break at or inside the base of the connector leading to unexplainable electrical malfunction.
One last thing before we move onto another section – the battery hold-down bracket. Your Kubota may not be equipped with this anymore as it is a common thing to go missing. The point is to hold the battery tight against the battery support bracket so that the lead plates inside the battery do not smash themselves to pieces. If the plates are damaged the battery will not hold a charge.
A battery and hold down bracket.
Read more about inspecting your electrical system in our Kubota Battery Basics article.
Hydraulic Suction Filter
If you have an earlier Kubota like a L175, L185, L245 or a B5100, B6100 or B7100 you have a hydraulic suction filter that must be serviced on a regular basis. Most folks forget to do so which leads to one of two things: 1) the filter get plugged and hydraulic performance suffers or 2) the filter disintegrates and the fine mesh material ends up circulating around in the fluid.
The hydraulic suction filter in your Kubota is essentially a fine mesh that collects flash and debris.
If you have slow hydraulics, shuddering, jerky front end loader movement or poor 3-point performance this suction screen is likely at fault. You will need to locate the filter, clean and inspect and possibly order a new one. Read our article on hydraulic suction filters for the specific details on how to perform this maintenance.
Safety
Most Kubota tractors have a PTO speed of 540RPM which is about 540 too much if you get your arm and leg stuck in one. If not already equipped get a PTO shield that adequately covers the PTO stub shaft at the rear. You will also want to make sure the implement drive line is shielded in the usual plastic casing.
Kubota has a ROPS and seat belt program that they offer through their dealership network. If your Kubota is not already equipped, get and use a ROPS and seat belt. Seriously.
Dan's nearly-rolled Kubota B2320. He blamed it on the snow.
Implements
If your new-to-you Kubota comes with a front end loader or maybe a mower, take the time to inspect and service them. Locate and service grease zerks on the loader pivot pins. Raise and lower the loader and make note of any shudder or poor lifting performance – either could indicate problems with the hydraulic system.
Turn the mower deck over and blast out any accumulated debris with a pressure washer. Inspect the blades and belts for wear and replace as needed. You will also want to make sure the mower deck gear assembly is properly lubricated – same goes for a rototiller. Speaking of rototillers, we have an article on them as well. Mid-mount or “belly” mower decks should be removed during the winter time.
Summary
Here are some quick tips to get your new-to-you Kubota up to speed:
give it a good degreasing and pressure wash
order the parts and operator’s manuals in advance
assess your equipment for leaks, cracks, off smelling oil or hydraulic fluid and things that are broken
replace the air, fuel, oil and hydraulic filters and fluids
your battery should be rated 850CCA or higher with clamp-style cable ends
make sure you have safety equipment installed and use them
grease your front end loader and mower deck
Be prepared to spend the time it takes to maintain your Kubota. Simple observations with the correct preventative follow up with pay you back ten fold when you can avoid a costly repair later.
Next Steps
Consider joining our forums where you can give advice or ask for it anytime of the day or night. Also be sure to check out our related articles for more orange tractor reading.
It is time for another installment of KubotaTube, where we scour YouTube to surface some interesting videos featuring our favorite orange tractor in action. Instructional videos are handy but sometimes its more fun to watch others do the heavy lifting, or pulling, in minus 30 degree weather. Without further delay…
2 Engines, 8 Tires and 5 Gallons of Diesel Fuel
I like this video because it demonstrates the can do spirit, even if it looks a little out of control at times. These two gents managed to chain together what looks like an L245 and L225 to generate enough pony power to get that bottom plow moving. They plowed 2 acres like this.
Orange and Yellow Team Up to Save the Bacon
Skip ahead to the 1 minute mark in this video to watch a Caterpillar backhoe team up with our hero to have a semi truck with a load of hogs stuck in a snow ditch. Family entertainment folks.
Not a Kubota – But it is Orange…
And there’s a horse in this one so we will let it in! Continuing the theme of ropes strung between pieces of heavy equipment moving somewhat dangerously – we have a 4WD Zetor pulling a truck up a muddy embankment – all of which is pulled by a single horse at the top.
Same road, but different truck this time. We also get a glimpse of what not to do behind a muddy heavy piece of moving equipment.
Man and His L3400 Knock a House Down
Demolition and a Kubota L Series. What else does a man need really? Jump ahead to the 0:40 mark to watch the carnage.
Next Best Thing to a Ski Hill
Believe it or not, this is only the second video of a Kubota gray market B1600DT pulling a skier I have seen.
Over the last 18 months the site has grown a lot. We have outstripped the simple classifieds system put together on a weekend more than a year ago… The existing system does not allow anyone to edit or update their ad after the fact, add pictures, take down their ad, answer questions or anything fun like that. It served us well but it was also a pain in the butt to use.
Instead of reinventing the wheel creating a classifieds system, we have a new section on the forums: Buy, Sell & Trade!
Cool! How can I post an ad?
You will need to register on the forums in order to post your ad and any pictures. Registering on the forums also comes in handy when you have helpful advice to give or need it from someone else. Bonus.
What sorts of things should I include in my ad?
Take a look here for some tips. There is no strict rules regarding the formatting of the ads – but – certain things can make your ad easier to find.
What happens to the existing ads on the old system?
They are no longer accessible. If you want your ad up you will have to post it again – sorry about that!
A shot of failed bearings freely rolling around the inside of the steering box - the source of wobbly unresponsive steering.
This article is the first of two that covers the procedure for rebuilding a failed steering box on your Kubota. An earlier article has hints and tips regarding diagnosing steering box failure and is prerequisite reading before we jump into the actual repair covered in these next two tutorials.
Symptoms of Steering Box Failure
Failure of the steering box is actually a pretty common service complaint so it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with the symptoms:
increased or very hard steering effort in either direction
a crunching or clicking noise coming from the steering box
steering wheel will turn then gets stuck or locks up
steering wheel will not return to center after making a turn
steering wheel is frozen in place and will not turn at above zero temperatures
steering binds, jerks, locks, gets stuck then will “work” but feels loose
oil is leaking from the sides of the steering box
oil from the steering box is rusty or watery
Before We Get Started
This is the type of repair that the average Kubota tractor owner can undertake with relative ease. If you have a basic working knowledge of auto servicing or restoration then this repair is within grasp. Access to a clean work bench, a puller set and a selection of six-point metric sockets is also required.
Box and Column Removal
If you have not done so already, we recommend removing the steering box and column from the tractor to perform these repairs. It is possible to do the repair with the box still bolted to the top of the clutch housing, but, there is something to be said for comfort and a good solid work height.
Loosen the dash cowling where it attaches to the sides of the fuel tank. Spin the 4 bolts out of the dash where it mounts to the sides of the tank and you will see the dash then moves freely.
The steering box and column visible after we remove the dash and engine side panels.
Slide the doughnut-shaped upper column bushing upwards to make the column easier to extract. Spraying a little WD40 on the column will make the bushing slide better. You will also need to pop off the steering wheel center cap and remove the wheel using a puller.
The drag link can be disconnected from the pitman arm using a tie rod end pickle fork. Next, remove the 4 bolts mounting the base of the steering box to the top of the clutch housing. Nearly there – but wait! The box will not come off yet because…
Staked with Dowels
The underside of the steering box is staked in place by a couple of metal dowels. You may need to insert a screwdriver between the bottom of the box and the top of the housing to work the box up and off.
A shot looking down just after the steering box is removed from the top of the clutch housing. The male and female dowels are visible on the left and right as well as the 4 bolt holes where the box was held in place. The clutch shaft is visible in the openening.
You will find one female dowel on the underside of the box and one male dowel on the top of the clutch housing. The box fits tightly on these two dowels so expect to work it a little to get it to pop off the dowels – once you do the steering box and column are ready to be taken over to the bench.
Inspection and Tear Down
Now that you have the box on the workbench, it is a good time to inspect for damage, cracks or breaks on the cast portion of the box case. Also be on the lookout for signs of oil leakage.
Steering box, column and pitman arm removed from the tractor and ready to inspect on the workbench.
Hairline cracks can be addressed with a little JB Weld. Broken box mounting tabs or large areas of destruction cannot be patched. Typically when the bottom of the box is blown out as a result of water freezing you will need a new bare box case – still available from Kubota but will likely be an expensive part.
A hairline crack where the box and column meet can be repaired using JB Weld. Any damage more significant than this will require a new bare box.
JB Weld. Handy in a pinch.
Next, remove the pitman arm bolt and lock and use a puller to remove the arm from the steering box.
Removing the bolt from the pitman arm.
Using a puller to loosen and remove the pitman arm from the steering box.
Inspect the Pitman Arm
Look closely for a scribed line that runs through the pitman arm and the end of the steering box sector shaft – this is an alignment mark that must be referenced when reinstalling the pitman arm – make note of it.
Pitman arm after removal from the box. We have highlighted the small alignment mark used when reinstalling the arm later.
Sector Shaft Removal
To get at the sector shaft we remove the 4 bolts holding the end of the sector shaft end cover plate onto the steering box. Removing the cover plate will draw the sector shaft out of the steering box.
Remove these 4 bolts to expose the sector shaft.
The sector shaft is attached to the end cover plate.
Column Seperation
We need to get the steering column off the steering box. Remove the bushing from the top of the steering column and remove the 4 bolts holding the column post to the cast portion of the box. You will then be able to lift off the column.
Remove the upper bushing at the far end of the steering column. It was already removed when this picture was taken.
Removing the 4 bolts at the base of the steering column exposes the steering shaft ball nut assembly within the steering box.
Steering Box Inspection
With the column post detached from the box, grasp the steering shaft and withdraw it from the box case. Chances are the ball nut will still be attached to the shaft and will come out as a complete unit. Looking inside the box you may find any or all of these:
loose ball bearings
stray bits of metal chipped off the steering shaft worm
drive teeth from the sector shaft
Loose bearings at the bottom of the steering box.
A worn steering shaft worm gear.
Take the time to inspect the ball nut assembly, steering shaft and sector shaft for wear. Order replacement parts as required.
Sector Shaft Seal
With the box now almost completely torn down for rebuild, pop out the old steering sector shaft seal with a straight blade screwdriver or small pry bar.
Straight blade screwdriver used to remove the sector shaft seal.
Lower Bearing Race
The last item to be removed from the steering box is the lower bearing race located inside the steering box where the ball nut steering shaft would sit. If you are lucky, this race will just pop out after some gentle tapping on the backside of the box. If not so lucky you will need to pry it up. You will find it a tight fit to wrangle a tool in there unless it has a small hook end on it that you can pry under the edge of that bearing race. I have been successful a few times removing this race by utilizing a common 6d (six penny) construction nail.
This bearing race will either come out nicely or will put up a fight. A 6d construction nail can be used to pry it up in the later case.
Using vice-grip pliers, lock onto the shaft of the nail and then use the head of the nail to pry up and under the bearing race. The nail head is thin enough to just catch the underside lip of the bearing cup yet is firm enough to allow you to pry against the floor of the steering box. Kubota does offer a service tool made specifically for this job – it costs a couple of million bucks. The nail works just fine and is a better deal we think!
Tear Down Complete
What you should have on your bench now is a completely bare, stripped down, steering box. Next steps, which we will cover in an upcoming article, are the clean up and rebuild! Stay tuned.
